Lake Akan travel guide
Marimo moss balls, Kamuy Lumina night walk, and Ainu culture – from a 2019 journey, refreshed for 2026
It has certainly been a long time since I last posted. I just came back from a short trip to Eastern Hokkaido and I enjoyed every moment of it! Now that I am back home, I can't contain my excitement to share about my favorite highlight of this journey – Lake Akan. Located in Kushiro, Hokkaido, Japan, Lake Akan is a caldera lake formed by volcanic activity. It’s famous for its rare marimo moss balls (a protected species) and the deeply spiritual Ainu culture that still breathes through the forest.
Here near Lake Akan, there’s a powerful story about wildlife preservation. I was on a road trip from Obihiro to Kushiro. Before this trip, I had only vaguely heard of the Ainu. But coming here, the only thing I can say is: “I’m glad to be here.” In the following sections, I’ll share my itinerary and experiences – updated with 2026 details, English accessibility, and the quiet truths I’ve learned since.
🚙 Road trip warm‑up: Ikeda Wine Castle & Boya Farm
After leaving Obihiro, we visited two quick stops: Ikeda Wine Castle and Boya Farm. At Ikeda Wine Castle you can sample Tokachi wine (the fragrance is lovely), and Boya Farm offers a sheepdog show. Both are family‑friendly and free to enter.
| Stop | Location | Hours | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ikeda Wine Castle | 83-4 Kiyomi, Ikeda-cho | 9:00–17:00 (closed Dec 28–Jan 2) | Free entry (tastings may have fees) |
| Boya Farm | Near Ikeda | Sheepdog shows vary by season | Free / donation |
🎭 Ainu Theater Ikor – Lost Kamuy performance
Then, about an hour’s drive to the stop I had been most excited for: Ainu Theater Ikor (Ainu Kotan). This theater presents the history and spiritual beliefs of the Ainu people. I watched a performance titled Lost Kamuy. Although the dialogue is in Japanese and Ainu, an English guide is handed out, and now (2026) there are also English subtitles on the side screens – a direct result of visitor feedback that I was proud to contribute to.
So, what is Ainu? In the Ainu language, ‘Ainu’ means ‘people’. They named many places in Hokkaido, and for a long time faced discrimination. Official recognition came only in 2019, but the bill was vague and incomplete. Still, seeing their culture performed so vividly – the traditional dances, the deep respect for kamuy (spirits) – was moving.
The Ainu believe that every being – animals, tools, weather, even plants – contains a piece of the divine. Kamuy are the spiritual forces that give life. As someone who donates to WWF, I felt a bittersweet joy. The performance’s message about the extinction of the Hokkaido wolf (the horokeu‑kamuy) and the urgency of environmental stewardship resonated deeply. After the show, we were invited on stage to dance – I was terrible, but it was pure fun.
🚢 Lake Akan cruise: 85 minutes to the Marimo Exhibition Center
After checking in our bags at New Akan Hotel (more on that later), we rushed to catch the last cruise of the day. The 85‑minute cruise takes you across the lake to Churui Island, where the Marimo Exhibition Center displays these rare, fuzzy algae balls. Some marimo are over 100 years old!
| Ticket type | Adult (13+) ¥ | Child (6–12) ¥ | Notes / Inclusion |
|---|---|---|---|
| Regular | ¥2,700 | ¥1,390 | Includes Marimo Exhibition Center entry (15 mins). |
| Group (15+ pax) | ¥2,370 | ¥1,230 | Must be pre-booked via tour operator. |
Season: April 15 – November 30 (no winter cruises). Departures roughly every hour; the 4:00 PM cruise is best for autumn photography because the sun sets early behind Mount Oakan, painting the lake in orange and purple. After October 20, the 4:00 PM cruise is cut – take the 3:00 PM instead. In summer (late July–August), there’s a 6:00 AM Sunrise Cruise for the same low‑angle magic.
Six years later, my feeling has changed. Back in 2019 I wrote that marimo "reproduce and have little baby marimos (ah my heart is weak when it comes to cute, tiny things)." Today, I see them differently. I’m glad the Ainu are finally being recognized. I still believe nature should be appreciated, that there is kamuy in every leaf and ripple. But I’ve not returned to Lake Akan – not because I didn’t love it, but because the world is too big to step into the same river twice. There’s a quiet mono‑no‑aware in that: a gentle mourning for the parts of Kushiro and Shiretoko I never explored, and yet a hope that my writing might send someone else there. If one person discovers Eastern Hokkaido because of this post, that honour will be enough.
✨ Kamuy Lumina – interactive night walk (now with English!)
After dinner, we walked to the activity I had looked forward to most: Kamuy Lumina. Launched in July 2019, it’s a 1.2‑km interactive night walk through the forest. You receive a glowing “rhythm staff” that plays sounds, and you follow a story about the Owl and the Jay Bird trying to save animals from extinction.
Great news for 2026: The experience is now fully accessible to English speakers! You can:
- Scan a QR code at the entrance for translations.
- Watch an English‑language video in the welcome area.
- Use the official mobile app (English and Chinese) to understand each zone.
- Pick up an English pamphlet with the full story.
Staff at the entrance explain safety and the plot in English. The story remains deeply moving – a plea to humans not to let greed drive more animals to become kamuy returning to the sky. It’s not tiring; you walk at your own pace. I was grateful that the DMO actively asked for feedback after my 2019 trip, and many of these English improvements came directly from visitor suggestions.
🏨 New Akan Hotel – honest 2026 update
We stayed at New Akan Hotel (opened 1969, last major renovation in 2015). The rooftop Tenkū Open Sky Garden Spa is still a highlight – open from 5 AM, so you can enjoy a morning bath before checkout. However, 2025/2026 reviews mention that some guest rooms and unit baths feel outdated. The hotel will close temporarily from November 12–15, 2026 for electrical system upgrades, but no cosmetic overhaul is planned.
New taxes (from April 1, 2026): You will pay a bathing tax (¥250 per adult per night) plus a tiered accommodation tax:
| Nightly rate (¥ per person) | Kushiro City tax ¥ | Hokkaido tax ¥ | Total ¥ |
|---|---|---|---|
| Under ¥20,000 | ¥200 | ¥100 | ¥300 |
| ¥20,000 – ¥49,999 | ¥200 | ¥200 | ¥400 |
| ¥50,000 and above | ¥200 | ¥500 | ¥700 |
Example: two adults in a ¥18,000 room pay ¥500 bathing + ¥600 accommodation = ¥1,100 per night extra.
❓ Frequently asked questions – Lake Akan travel
Yes, with preparation. The cruise is stroller‑friendly (fold before boarding). Kamuy Lumina is an easy 1.2 km walk, but baby carriers are better than strollers on the forest path. The Ainu theater performance is seated and lasts ~30 minutes – fine for older kids (5+). For diapered toddlers, the onsen at New Akan Hotel allow children only in private baths (reserve in advance).
Mid‑October is peak autumn foliage. The 4:00 PM cruise (available until Oct 20) offers stunning sunset views. After Oct 20, take the 3:00 PM departure. In summer, the 6:00 AM sunrise cruise is excellent for photography.
By rental car (easiest, about 1 hour from Kushiro airport). Alternatively, the Akan Bus (Akankan) runs limited daily services from Kushiro Station to Lake Akan (reservation required, ~¥3,000 one way). Taxis are expensive (¥15,000+).
No – the Marimo Exhibition Center is only accessible via the 85‑minute cruise. The center gives you 15 minutes to view the marimo in their natural underwater habitat. It’s worth it for the education and the boat ride.
Kamuy Lumina operates from early June to late October. It closes for the winter due to snow and ice. Check the official Kamuy Lumina website for exact dates.
📌 Explore more of Japan through my eyes:
🌿 Hokkaido Masterlist – all my Hokkaido guides in one place.
🍃 Kyushu Masterlist – volcanoes, onsen, and hidden trails.
🏔️ Gifu Masterlist – the mountains and ryokan I’m currently documenting.
If you enjoyed the silence of Lake Akan, you might also appreciate the hidden valleys of Gifu, which I've been exploring in my latest project.
