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Day 2 in Kyushu, Japan: Goodbye, Hakata, and Hello, Kokura and Mojiko!
Hello everyone, I'm back to write about my second day in Japan! In my previous post I've talked about how my friends and I planned our trip to Kyushu, so in the following posts I'll be sharing our itinerary in as many details as I can remember!
Day 2 of our Kyushu adventure was packed with excitement—from picking up our rental car to exploring Kokura Castle and the charming port town of Mojiko. Here’s how it all unfolded! As it can get a little lengthy, here's an overview to help you navigate around the post!
Content Overview
- Checking Out from Hakata
- Picking Up Rental Car
- Onwards to Kokura
- Visiting Mojiko
- Dinner at Saizeriya
Getting Ready for the Day
In case you missed my
posts earlier, my flight was rebooked with Friend B due to our connecting flight from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore being cancelled, so this is a day where we check out, collect our rental car, and pick Friend A up from Fukuoka Airport before we officially begin our road trip!
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| Sandwich bar at Quintessa Hotel Fukuoka Hakata Relax & Sleep |
At Quintessa Hotel Fukuoka Hakata Relax & Sleep, you can see a breakfast bar that offers various kinds of bread (and even flatbread!), with various selections of topping from mentaiko (a popular item from Hakata, also a popular souvenir) to veggies, cheese, and more! If you're brave enough to try natto (fermented soy beans), you can also try it here!
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| My breakfast @ Quintessa Hotel Fukuoka Hakata Relax & Sleep |
As someone who eats a lot, I managed to get my fill of chawanmushi, scrambled egg, miso soup, a few cups of drinks, yogurt, some flatbread to make my custom 'burrito' to experiment different kinds of toppings, sausages, potato salad, tuna, ham, avocado, tomatoes, and different sorts of vegetable combination that I don't quite remember, but I'm glad I felt full!
After our breakfast, we double checked our room to make sure we didn't leave anything behind, we checked out and dragged our luggage to our rental car pick-up spot - Budget Rent-a Car!
Picking Up the Rental Car
I'll write another post someday on the details on how we picked our rental car because it is going to be a long talk if I were to go to the details. Long story short, as this was our first time renting a car in Japan, we wanted to ensure everything went smoothly while staying within budget. After assessing various criteria, we decided to rent from a branch about a 10-minute walk from our hotel.
However, since we had quite an amount of luggage, dragging them to the shop slowed us down slightly, and we arrived later than expected.
The store had a multilingual staff who speaks Mandarin, Japanese and English. However I absolutely did not realize that and communicated with them in Japanese until another group of Mandarin-speaking tourists entering the shop when we were almost done.
We took some time here as we apparently needed passport copies with the arrival stamps for every driver involved - and Friend A is still pending customs clearance by the time we were picking up the car, so we waited for her in order to get the car in advance.
As for why we insisted on having her information instead of just registering with Friend B's details alone - it's for safety reasons, as well as for insurance reasons. In an unfortunate case where your rented vehicle gets into an accident and they did find out that the driver is not registered, your claim will not be valid! With this trip being our very first self-drive trip, we absolutely did NOT want to risk anything (as a law-abiding citizen, of course, but if you're a risk-taker... that's on you, I do not condone irresponsible acts) especially when we are in a foreign country!
Thankfully, upon explaining (nicely) to the store, they accepted a clear image of my friend's immigration pass (the little stamp with Mt. Fuji with a QR code) and we managed to collect our car!
And we drove straight to the airport to wait for our friend to meet us at the right entrance, only to go round and round because there were renovation works going around so we can't just park anywhere like how we do in Malaysia (lol).
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| Right behind the bus station that brings you to Hakata... |
With many apologies to taxi drivers (they assumed we're picking up people illegally without a proper license to do so because it was actually a thing...) and a lot of 'where are you' texts, Friend A was finally with us! With our rental car and everything else ready, we hit the road for Kokura, eager to explore its historic castle and gardens!
Onwards to Kokura
Due to unforeseen reasons, our road trip was delayed significantly, so we decided to just go on a slow pace, and fill our stomachs as it's almost lunch time by the time we arrived at Kokura. Plus, Friend A needed a meal too!
After driving for 1.5 hours from the airport, and spending time to search for a proper parking lot, we ended up parking at Riverwalk, since it's adjacent to Kokura Castle, and offers a lot for our dining and shopping needs!
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| Cushion-shopping took us a while, but hey, if it's for comfort for the next few days, why not? We'll think about how to bring the cushion home when the time comes since that thing is gonna stay in the car for the next 5 days or so anyway! |
As Asians, do we want to have rice for our meal? Definitely. But as tourists, do we want to try something a little different? Of course! So we spent some time shopping for cushions in DAISO (mainly for comfort in the next few days of driving), we went to the 4th floor to take a look at the restaurants, and decided to dine in Gohantotororo Toromugi.
Tonkatsu Lunch at Gohantotororo Toromugi
Don't get me wrong, other restaurants are good too! There are also a lot of variations! But Gohantotororo Toromugi offers grated yam in their meals and it isn't exactly a common thing we can see back in Malaysia. Plus, they offer rice AND tonkatsu, so it became an immediate choice after walking past a number of restaurants offering cuisines we commonly see in Kuala Lumpur!
Grated yam, or called tororo (not to be mistaken by Totoro from the famous Ghibli movie), is said to be healthy for us. It can be paired with your meals, and the taste itself isn't exactly flavorful. However, it has a unique flavor and texture!
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| Rice with tororo |
In terms of thickness, I find tororo less thick than pumpkin purees, but its fluidity is closer to the typical Chinese wat-tan-hor gravy, except that it's added with another load of corn starch. Even the waitress advised against us to order it for all three of us, knowing that we came from overseas, so being the only adventurous one (culinary-wise), I ordered it for myself and shared it with my friends - turns out it was really a good decision because I too, was the only one who enjoyed it because it felt like something new.
We all ordered tonkatsu, and it was easily one of the best tonkatsu we had throughout our entire trip, and definitely much better than any of the ones we've had in Malaysia (oh Japan you spoil my palette so much).
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| Tonkatsu at Gohantotororo Toromugi - Just look at how crispy it is! |
Crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and with the good combination of sweetness in the paired tonkatsu sauce that also gave out a hint of aroma from the sesame within, I easily finished three bowls of rice in a sitting!
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| You're supposed to scoop the rice from the black bowl into the white bowl with a spatula, but as someone with an insatiable appetite, however... I used the black container as my bowl... (table manners where Jin, whereeeeee) |
Best of all? Gohantotororo Toromugi offered free refills! For both their rice and tea! Do you know how delightful that sounds for me? That I refilled my rice container THREE times! Not with the white bowl, but the black rice container! All full! I was OVERJOYED!!
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| Free refills! |
In fact, I was so overjoyed at the sight of the big rice cooker I ate my tonkatsu slowly just so I can eat more rice, and ignored the gazes from everyone around me as I happily refilled my rice because I knew we are all going to have a long day of walking!
And right after our meal, we left the cushion in the car and walked straight to Kokura Castle Garden!
Kokura Castle Garden
After devouring that delicious tonkatsu (and three bowls of rice, no less), we were ready for a leisurely stroll. Kokura Castle Garden, with its serene ponds and lush greenery, was the perfect spot to unwind. Nestled right next to Kokura Castle, this traditional Japanese garden offers a tranquil escape from the city’s hustle and bustle—exactly what we needed after a hearty meal.
Kokura Castle Garden is the perfect spot since it was just nearby our lunch place! Nestled right next to Kokura Castle, this traditional Japanese garden is a hidden gem that offers a tranquil escape with its meticulously designed landscapes, koi-filled ponds, and charming tea houses. It’s the kind of place where you can slow down, take a deep breath, and truly appreciate the beauty of nature.
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| Kokura Castle Garden Pond |
With audio guides, we learnt a lot about the design and culture significance. It's wonderful that you can receive multilingual audio guide in different languages as long as you are connected to their network!
After making payment for a combination ticket to the castle and the garden, we relaxed ourselves in the garden and enjoyed the soothing breeze.The garden is designed in the classic kaiyū-shiki style, which means it’s meant to be enjoyed as you stroll along its winding paths.
Designed after a samurai's residence with a lord's garden, every turn in Kokura Castle Garden reveals something new—a small bridge arching over a crystal-clear stream, a cluster of vibrant flowers, or a perfectly pruned pine tree that looks like it belongs in a painting. The attention to detail is incredible, and you can tell that every stone, plant, and water feature has been carefully placed to create harmony and balance.
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| Another view towards where we sat and relax |
With the central pond being its highlight that is home to many colorful koi fish, it was relaxing to watch them glide gracefully through the water - almost therapeutic. We even caught a glimpse of a turtle! For those who love a bit of history, the garden also features a traditional tea house where you can experience a proper Japanese tea ceremony (check for details here). It’s a great way to immerse yourself in the culture and take a moment to reflect on your journey. If you are also interested in cultural lectures in Japanese, there are lectures available in various topics in tea, incense, Japanese calligraphy, and much more! Class details here.
After spending a little over an hour here, we decided that it's time to depart to Kokura Castle so we can still make it to Mojiko!
Kokura Castle
With just a short walk, we arrived at Kokura Castle. Unlike the more famous castles of Japan, Kokura Castle carries a unique charm—it doesn’t scream for attention, but once you step inside its grounds, you’ll find yourself drawn in by its history and beauty. This is because it is actually a restored castle, where the townsmen decided to go for aesthetics instead of restoring it back to its original style after its destruction due to a fire.
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| Kokura Castle Exterior |
From the looks of it, you might think that the castle has only four stories. We thought so too! But turns out, the keep is five-stories! With its striking white facade with dark wooden accents, the interior is where you’ll find displays of samurai armor, historical records, and an observation deck offering a panoramic view of the city.
Outside, the castle garden is filled with cherry blossoms. While we visited during autumn, it did not lose its beauty. But we figured that it would look spectacular during mid-spring, especially during the cherry blossom season when the soft pink petals flutter and contrast beautifully against the castle’s walls. If you time it right, you might even catch a festival or local performances bringing the castle grounds to life!
As Kokura is spot famed for its history with samurais, it is no surprise that you’ll immediately be welcomed by exhibits dedicated to the Hosokawa family, the feudal lords who once ruled over Kokura. Their armor, weapons, and personal belongings are on display, giving you a sense of what life was like for these powerful figures. I couldn’t help but marvel at the intricate details of the samurai armor—it’s hard to imagine wearing something so heavy and elaborate into battle!
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| Exhibits |
One of the highlights for me was the replica of the castle’s original tenshu (main tower). It’s a stunning recreation that shows how the castle looked during its heyday, complete with traditional architecture and period-accurate furnishings.
As you make your way up the floors, you’ll find exhibits that delve into the daily life of the castle’s inhabitants. From kitchen utensils to ceremonial items, these artifacts paint a vivid picture of what life was like for both the ruling class and the common people.
Of course, when we visit a keep, and knowing it is also a place built in era with battles, there is definitely military history involved! Fret not, for those interested in the castle’s military history, there’s a floor dedicated to the strategies and tactics used during battles. Maps, models, and interactive displays explain how the castle was defended and how it played a role in the region’s conflicts. It’s fascinating to see how much thought went into every aspect of the castle’s design, from its strategic location to its defensive features.
And of course, no visit to Kokura Castle would be complete without a trip to the observation deck at the top! Places and landmarks were also seen, so we spent some time looking around! The panoramic views of Kitakyushu gave us a refreshing view, and it’s the perfect way to end our visit in this treasure trove of history, culture, and art. On a clear day, you can even see as far as the Kanmon Strait—it’s a reminder of just how strategically important this castle once was.
As we decided to leave our super duper heavy luggage in our hotel, we drove back to our hotel in Rakuten STAY Kokura Station, Kitakyushu, Japan.
Checking in to Our Hotel
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| Rakuten STAY Kokura Station, Kitakyushu, Japan Exterior |
As the hotel comes with a self check-in feature, we had a minor hiccup but was soon met with their remote support and everything went well! That being said, we were VERY delighted at the sight of our super spacious twin room!
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| Rakuten STAY Kokura Station, Kitakyushu, Japan |
Due to the lack of availability of the triple room, we booked their twin room that was meant for triple use. And since I actually found their bed a little too soft for my liking, I volunteered to sleep on the sofa, which happened to be more comfortable for me even though I slept in a pretty bad posture with my leg hanging and curling up and everything.
After the short break and unloading everything, we headed straight to Mojiko!
Mojiko Sunset, here we come!
The home to baked curry, the port for trades, the retro buildings! As soon as I set my eyes on pictures of Mojiko, I knew we had to drop by for our visit! Nestled along the northern tip of Kyushu in Kitakyushu City, this charming port town whispers tales of its past through its preserved Meiji and Taisho-era architecture.
Once a bustling international trade hub, Port of Moji (Mojiko) has since transformed into a nostalgic getaway, blending Western-style buildings, seaside views, and a laid-back atmosphere that feels worlds apart from the busy city streets.
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| We're here! |
After driving for an hour or so (and hopelessly searching around for a parking lot), we were immediately welcomed by the breeze, just perfect for me, but a little too cold for my friends. As we walked along the waterfront, we arrived at Mojiko Station, a beautifully restored wooden railway station that dates back to 1914—one of the few remaining of its kind in Japan. And that's when my stomach started feeling unwell — a little TMI, but my period was not being cooperative and I had a major overflow issue.
So I ended up spending time in the public toilet, and for once, I missed the bidet we have back in Malaysia. Sure, Japanese toilets are wonderful, but as someone who uses a menstrual cup to be more eco-friendly? I really appreciated Malaysia's toilets more now. (Well, at least the seat was warm, so it still helped!)
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| There's just something special about red brick buildings |
After we were done, we did some shopping, and walking more along the town we found more retro-style cafés, boutique shops, and museums that tell the story of its rich maritime history! And since we arrived just in time for sunset, we also walked along Blue Wing Drawbridge for a sunset view in this timeless town!
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| Blue Wing Drawbridge |
If you are a fan of sightseeing trains, you might want to have more time here in Mojiko, because there's actually a cute sightseeing train that runs along the waterfront called Shiokaze-go (潮風号)! We happened to also manage to catch a good glimpse of it too! If you have the chance, come and enjoy the sight of Mojiko's waterfront in its old-school design and open windows, it’s like stepping into a scene from the past. Perfect for soaking in that sea breeze while enjoying the nostalgic vibes of Mojiko.
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| Shiokaze-go |
After strolling around a little more and deciding that we're a little too tired after a lot of walking (we're talking about 15k steps on a supposedly 'chill' day), we decided to grab some yaki curry from Mojiko Retro - but we were not exactly lucky. The restaurant wasn't open, so we end up returning to Kokura to dine in a nearby shopping mall while shopping for some kairo (stick-on self-heating pads) because we'll be heading to Beppu on the next day, and it might be cold!
Famires Dinner in Saizeriya Kokura
So, we shopped a little in SAINTcity Shopping Mall, and pondered what to have for dinner, and we passed by Saizeriya! For Friend A and me, who both missed famires (family restaurants) in Japan, we immediately knew it's the right place for us to have dinner! And guess what, there's also yaki curry on the menu!
There's a reason why we both LOVE dining at Saizeriya. Maybe it’s the way the warm scent of baked cheese and tomato sauce greets me the moment we step inside, or maybe it’s just the sheer relief of knowing I can eat to my heart’s content without my wallet crying in protest. Sure, it’s no fine dining, but that’s the beauty of it— full of comfort, no pretense, no pressure, just the quiet joy of a good meal at an unbelievably reasonable price. I can sit back, sip on a cup of free-flowing corn soup, and let the world slow down for a while.
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| The limited picture of our dinner because I focused on eating a little too much |
And of course, there’s the food—uncomplicated but satisfying. Their pizzas? A guilty pleasure I refuse to give up. Their pastas? A dependable friend, always there when I need comfort food. Their soup? A soothing friend there for you when you needed to relax and calm down, so warm and flavorful. And let’s not even get started on the legendary affordable drink bar.
I mean, where else can I mix cola, tea, and melon soda into some Frankenstein concoction just because I can? Saizeriya isn’t just about the food; it’s about the whole experience—the little moments of indulgence, the nostalgia of past visits, and the quiet understanding that sometimes, happiness is as simple as a plate of cheesy baked rice in a no-frills restaurant.
And just like that, we ended our day in a nice shower, watched TV, ate some extra umegae-mochi that Edahiro-san and her husband bought for us but we couldn't finish (thank goodness they still taste the same, can't say the same if it's left for another day), and I slept on the sofa as soon as I finished applying some muscle relief patches for my feet.
Have you visited Mojiko and Kokura? Share your experiences in the comments below! If you find this blog post informative, feel free to share it around to your friends! See you until my next post, where I'll share my experience in Beppu, including our Michelin-starred accommodation!
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