Item: Saga City Hotel
Rating: 3.75
Author: Jin Travels Japan

Reception Counter and Lobby area in Saga City Hotel

Being a Malaysian girl who just came back from a ¥8,800 Michelin feast that was decided on a whim, on top of the fact that she splurged on Michelin-starred ryokan as well as a luxury stay in Takachiho, this is when I desperately needed a crash pad that won't bankrupt us. So here we are, welcome to Saga City Hotel - our budget savior with some... quirks(?) And here's my unfiltered review as someone who slept in their single room while friends stayed in the double!

The Room That Surprised Me (And My Suitcase)

The reason we booked here wasn't complicated. We were in a peak traveling season, and on top of the fact that Kunen-an was also open and it a 9-autumn-days-in-a-year thing. There were other options too, but they were either way out of our budget, or my friends didn't fancy the idea of shared shower rooms with other guests. Not to mention, we originally also planned to stay close to downtown in case we'd still want to shop more after checking in, so Saga City Hotel was the perfect choice for us, because on average we only spent RM197 per person for a night's stay (based on the conversation rate when we visited), and it came with breakfast!

The reading area outside the public bath

However, there was a catch. They do not offer triple rooms. So after splitting from my friends (they took the double room), I entered my small double room (booked for single use) with APA Hotel room size expectations in my mind. Instead, I found:

✅ A bed where I could have two pillows for myself
✅ A bedside table with LAN cable outlet
✅ Full-length mirror for outfit checks
✅ Smart TV positioned for bed-viewing
✅ Shopaholic-approved floor space for luggage Tetris!

On top of the fact that I can also choose a non-smoking room when most city hotels could cost me RM300+ per night? This is a good deal that I can take on anytime.

Also, to be honest, after I had my shower to unpack and repack everything like a Tetris champion, I had the time to finally unwind before I take a short nap until the public bath's opening hour for a good soak. I decided to watch some TV and sleep since it was close to 9.20 PM by the time we checked in, and nothing much would be open in downtown by then for us to do some last-minute shopping.

What They Don't Tell You About the Bathrooms

It all sounded too perfect so far, right? There's still another catch. The bathroom felt like a product of IKEA showroom attached to a typical Japanese business hotel - small, less spacious, and it certainly felt old and almost detachable is what I'd describe the bathroom of my room. But hey, it's still very functional!

Public indoor hot bath in the hotel (not in the room, you share it with strangers, and this photo is courtesy to the hotel, you are not supposed to bring your phone beyond the changing area)

Pro tips if you struggle with small showers and baths:

🧖 Shower curtain sticking to your arm? Angle the showerhead slightly closer to the walls, and stand away from the curtains a little more.
🚪 Gap under bathroom door? Remind yourself to lock your room to feel more peace.
🛁 If the mini tub doesn't satisfy you - head to the gender-separated public bath instead.

5 AM Real Talk: The Good, The Bad, The Quirky

As someone who traveled to Japan solo, for business trips, as well as with friends, there are always things that we would love or hate with everywhere I stayed, and there's no exception for Saga City Hotel. However, I know not everyone can enjoy public baths like I do, so in this segment I'll share the pros and cons of the hotel, and let you decide!

Drinks Area in Breakfast Dining Hall

👍 Why We Loved It

¥500 parking (rare for city hotels, because we paid double in Kumamoto!)
Breakfast buffet with decent options of food and drinks
Library lounge with manga/comics
Short walk to Saga Station and downtown
Single room is also suitable for solo travelers

Breakfast Buffet Area- Yes that's everything you're seeing from the lobby

👎 What Needs Work

Thin walls (pack earplugs!) - I can hear the sounds of people dragging suitcases...
1980s decor vibes - If you're not a fan of old-looking places...
Breakfast area feels cramped - Come early to secure seats!
No real onsen - Just standard shared heated baths

Essential Tips for First-Timers

Perhaps you're here in Saga for Kunen-an like us, or perhaps if you're here a little earlier in November you might get to see hot air balloons! Whether you're here for Saga beef, for the history of Saga, or just simply here to vibe, there's a tip for everyone who hasn't stayed here before.

Twin Room (or Double, they mean the same) in Saga City Hotel

From one solo traveler to another:

Room Type Matters:
- Solo? If you're a girl, there are no capsule rooms for you (for males only) but small double rooms are perfect
- Couples? Semi-double is for you only if you two can cuddle all night (or book elsewhere, I'm serious because it's gonna be cramped you won't have enough space for multiple suitcases)
- Families? Be ready to sleep in separate rooms (no, there are no connecting rooms, so I recommend booking elsewhere especially when you have young children)
Bath Schedule: Public baths open 5AM-11PM (ideal post-dinner or early morning)
Language Hack: Use Google Translate + their English info sheets
Check-in: Arrive after 3PM, and before 9PM. There's a welcome drink!

Is Saga City Hotel Worth It? My Final Take

As a tall girlie you have no idea how happy I was to find a full length mirror where I can actually fit completely...

For about ¥6,500/night, I'd personally rate it as a 3.75/5 star experience:

🎯 Perfect for: Budget travelers, solo females, 1-2 night stays, short business trips
🚫 Avoid if: You want luxury amenities or true onsen

Would I return? Yes - but only for short stays. The convenience and breakfast make up for the aging facilities. As long as you don't expect Ritz-Carlton pampering, you'll be fineeeeeee!

*Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps keep the blog running - thank you! 🙏

🏨 Book Saga Hotels 🚗 Rent a Car via Trip.com ✈️ Flights to Fukuoka

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Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine: A Spiritual Journey in Takamori

With our time in Takachiho concluding with sunrise watching at Kunimigaoka Observatory and our breakfast back in Kamigakure, it is time for us to say our farewells to the mystical place blessed by the Gods - but is our spiritual journey truly over? Of course not! In this post today I'm going to take you to Kumamoto, but we aren't reaching the city just yet as we are still hoping to immerse ourselves with a little more spirituality — so we are visiting Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine!

Ugeto-Iwa, what a view

Introduction
The Name: What Does It Mean?
The Myths: Gods, Legends, and a Cave
Architecture and Design
The Visiting Path: A Journey Through Nature
Hall of Worship: Where Spirits Reside
Ugeto-Iwa: A Window to the Divine
How to Visit
Tips for Visitors

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine - An Introduction

Hiking up here is a reminder of how your efforts will always pay off

Nestled in the lush forests of Takamori, Kumamoto, Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine (上色見熊野座神社) is a place where time seems to stand still. With its moss-covered stone lanterns, towering cedar trees, and a pathway that feels like it leads to another world, this shrine is a spiritual haven and a photographer’s dream. Whether you’re seeking tranquility, a connection to nature, or just a unique adventure, Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine is a must-visit.

We planned to visit here right before we visit Mt. Aso, a popular volcanic mountain located in Kumamoto, and figured that Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine is somewhere we can drop by en-route (okay I'll be honest, with just a slight detour) and the information we found online when we were researching for places to go were so promising we just couldn't bring ourselves to miss it!

But what makes this shrine so special? Is it the ancient myths that surround it? The breathtaking architecture that blends perfectly with its surrounding nature? Or the sense of peace that washes over you as you walk its sacred paths? Spoiler alert: it’s ✨all ✨ of the above. Join me as I take you through the history, myths, and my personal experience at this magical shrine!

The Name: What Does It Mean?

To bask under the sunlight dancing between the leaves with a breezy autumn is truly a refreshing experience.

Let’s break down the shrine’s name, because it’s a mouthful to be read out, and a handful to be typed out! Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine (上色見熊野座神社) can be translated as “Upper Shikimi Kumano Shrine.” The shrine’s name, Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu, tells a story of its origins, and here’s what each part means:

Kami (上): Refers to the “upper” part of a mountain or a stream. But in this context, it is referring to the upper part of Shikimi Village, which was once a small agricultural community.
Shikimi (色見): The name of the village where the shrine is located in the Aso region.
Kumanoimasu (熊野座): Indicates the shrine’s affiliation with the Kumano network, a group of over 3,000 shrines connected to the Kumano Sanzan in Wakayama Prefecture, dedicated to the Kumano deities. The group of shrines are known for their syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism.

So, in essence, the name tells us that this is the “Upper Shikimi Shrine” affiliated with the Kumano deities. Simple, right? Well, not really, but it’s fascinating how much history is packed into those few characters!

While the exact founding date is unclear, you can easily tell that this place has been here for centuries and centuries, especially with burial mounds discovered nearby and how they have now blended so perfectly with nature. The shrine itself is believed to have been established during the Kamakura or Muromachi periods (1185–1573). Despite being rebuilt multiple times—most recently in 1979—the shrine retains its ancient charm and spiritual significance.

The Myths: Gods, Legends, and a Cave

Doesn't this look mystical already?

The shrine is dedicated to three deities: Izanagi, Izanami, and Takeiwatatsu no Mikoto. Izanagi and Izanami are central figures in Japanese mythology, credited with creating the Japanese islands and many Shinto deities. They are also the deities portrayed in the Goshintai dance of Yokagura we watched on the day before (read here). Takeiwatatsu, a legendary figure and grandson of Japan’s first emperor, is revered as the god of agriculture in the Aso region.

One of the shrine’s most fascinating features is the Ugeto-Iwa (穿戸岩), a massive rock with a hole in the middle. According to legend, Takeiwatatsu's assistant, Kihachi, kicked the rock in desperation while fleeing from his master. The cave is now a sacred site, believed to bring success in life and business to those who pay their respects.

But the myths don’t stop there. The shrine is also associated with the creation of the Aso region. Takeiwatatsu is said to have drained the volcanic lake in Mount Aso’s caldera by kicking down part of its rim, allowing the local people to become successful farmers. Talk about divine intervention!

Architecture and Design

Wished I took a closer photo, but there are sun and moon motifs in the lanterns that will also remind you of Amaterasu and Tsukuyomi

The shrine’s design is a blend of natural beauty and traditional craftsmanship. The Visiting Path (参道/Sando) is its most iconic feature—a stone pathway lined with over 100 moss-covered lanterns, flanked by towering cedar trees. Walking this path feels like stepping into a Studio Ghibli film, with sunlight filtering through the trees and mist hanging in the air.

At the end of the path, you’ll find the Hall of Worship (拜殿//Haiden), a wooden structure built in the irimoya-zukuri style (or known as 'resting hill roof', commonly found in East Asian architecture). Its hip-and-gable roof is adorned with katsuogi (decorative wooden logs) and chigi (forked roof ornaments), symbolizing the presence of both male and female deities. Behind the Hall of Worship is the Main Hall (本殿/Honden), a smaller, more sacred building where the kami (Gods/Deities) reside.

The Visiting Path: A Journey Through Nature

The torii where the hike all begins

The Visiting Path is the heart of the shrine's charm. With a short walk from the parking lot passing by some unmanned stalls selling local produces, you'll find a torii standing over a flight of stairs with a signboard of Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine. As you walk up the stone steps, you’ll pass by over 100 moss-covered lanterns, each donated by locals as a sign of gratitude. The path is flanked by towering cedar trees, their branches forming a natural canopy that filters the sunlight into a soft, ethereal glow.

Fun fact: Temizuya can also be read as Chouzuya, the word itself evolved over time so there are multiple ways of reading the kanji!

Halfway up the path, you’ll find the Purification Fountain (手水舍/Temizuya), where visitors cleanse their hands and mouths before entering the sacred space (and no, you don't need drink it, you can just rinse your mouth with the water after cleansing your hands, and also, no, you don't spit the water back into where you scooped it from). The fountain is simple yet elegant, with water flowing slowly where you can relax in its sounds. It’s a reminder to leave the outside world behind and enter the shrine with a pure heart.

💡Pro Tip: Before you go beyond this point, you'd want to have a toilet break at the restroom right opposite of the temizuya, because you won't be able to find any ahead!

Hall of Worship: Where Kami Resides

Before we hike further from the temizuya

One thing to note is that there is, in fact, quite a number of steps along the slope to take until you reach the haiden, but it is a nice walk in nature on the day we visited, so we took our time! It felt like we were basking in a soft shower of sunlight, sweating a little but quickly cooled down by the gentle autumn breeze, while I jokingly complained about my horrendous stamina while breathing the scent of the forest woods along with a sliver of petrichor as we watched the specks of sunlight danced over the ground. And with a bit of panting and chatting along the way, we finally arrived at the Hall of Worship.

I had to take a picture of the roof because it reminds me of a silly yet adorable face and it was so crowded to the point I couldn't take a proper photo of the main building

The moment we saw the top of the stairs, we were definitely taken aback in surprise at how it was congested where we had to go 'excuse me' multiple times to get to the side of the main hall instead of standing along the stairs (mainly for personal safety, because I don't think it's safe to have tired legs while trying to queue to see what's ahead).

If I had to be honest, I initially thought this would've been a place with less tourists, or perhaps an off-the-beaten-path, a hidden gem or the sort, but to my surprise there are many tourists from Taiwan and Hong Kong (I can tell from their accents as a Mandarin speaker before you ask) visiting as well. Good for Kyushu, for sure!

This was really the best I could do because of the crowd

Like many shrines, at the hall, you’ll find a rope with a bell attached. Visitors ring the bell to announce their arrival and offer a prayer. The atmosphere is serene, with the sound of the bells echoing through the forest. It’s a moment of connection, both with the kami and with the natural world around you.

After some waiting time while catching our breaths from the hike, we did manage to make our offerings despite the crowd, though we also noticed there were no omamori left for us to purchase. There are, however, people leaving their old omamori that has been expired into a designated box, but since the shrine appears to be unmanned, we assumed that they just happened to be sold out.

Ugeto-Iwa Cave: A Window to the Divine

While we were queuing, we heard some unique sounds echoing throughout the mountains. The sounds were melodious, pleasant to the ear, almost reminding me of sounds of bamboo pipes from traditional water fountains, but none of us could really place a finger on the actual source of the sound and found it mystical at the first place.

However, after paying our respects, and seeing there's a path ahead, we decided to follow the path, and that's how we began our journey continues up a steep staircase to the Ugeto-Iwa (穿戸岩). And just when we were almost wondering if we were going to really take up the challenge in the hike, we found these (see image below) and finally came to a realization on the source of the echoing melodies across the mountain. People were using these sticks as a walking stick, and the echoing sounds were the sounds of the bamboo sticks hitting the stone ground!

Bamboo sticks you can borrow as a hiking stick (remember to return them when you descend!)

While none of us knew too much about the cave at first, we did decide that if my spine is hurting we'll be turning back. Thankfully, we didn't, and we did find out that the cave is a massive rock with a hole in the middle, and only after our trip we knew that it was believed to have been created by Takeiwatatsu’s assistant, Kihachi, as he fled from his master. The cave is now a sacred site, with a small shrine nestled inside.

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine Ugeto Iwa Cave

A shot taken before we left

Climbing to the cave is no easy feat—the stairs are steep, and the path is narrow—but the view from the top is worth it. It was also a windy morning, so we also had to queue a little to take pictures while trying to avoid getting sand into our eyes. However, as you stand at the entrance to the cave, you’ll feel a sense of awe and reverence. It’s a reminder of the power of nature and the divine, and a moment to reflect on your own journey. I was also immensely grateful that while I may not in perfect health, I still managed to finish the hike and I wish to be blessed with abundance in health from here onwards. After taking one final picture of the cave, we descended and moved to our lunch spot in Aso.

How to Visit

From our hotel at Kamigakure, it was about 45 minutes by car. We found a parking lot nearby for visitors of the shrine, bought some drinks from a nearby vending machine (because we craved for drinks we missed in Japan and couldn't find them easily anymore), and walked past these unmanned stalls until we found the flight of stairs.

You can put some cash and purchase local produce here.

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine is accessible by car, and if you are visiting from Aso, it is only about 10 minutes from Minami Aso Tetsudo Takamori Station. There are limited parking, though. The parking lot only fits about 30 cars, and you can also see large buses for tourist groups too.

If you are visiting by bus, there are local buses on the Shikimi Loop Line. It takes about 16 minutes from Takamori Station, but the bus frequency is very low (only 4 trips outbound and 3 trips inbound for the year 2023). While the fare is affordable at only 200 yen per ride, the frequency may make it difficult for planning with limited time, so we'd still recommend renting a car when you visit southern Kyushu. You can check Sanko Bus's website for their latest schedule if you'd still like to find out more about it.

Alternately, you can also book a taxi in advance via this website if you are traveling within Aso. If you have more time to spend in southern Aso, there is also a pass you can consider: The Aso Minamiaso Travel Rail Bus Pass (Check details here and only purchase if it's applicable for your journey).

Tips for Visitors

You can see Ugeto-Iwa on top left of the image!

Arrive Early: The shrine is most peaceful in the early morning, before the crowds arrive.
Wear Comfortable Shoes: The path can be slippery on a rainy day, and it is also on a slope, proper shoes would be highly recommended.
Bring a Camera: The shrine and its surroundings are incredibly photogenic, you'll regret it if you don't have a camera with you!
Respect the Sacred Space: Remember that this is a place of worship. Be mindful of your actions and keep noise to a minimum.
Return the Bamboo Stick: It can be tempting to use the bamboo stick you borrowed, especially when you are not here with a hiking stick, but let's return what we borrowed so we don't leave bad karma. We're in a sacred place, after all!
Be mindful of your condition: If you are feeling unwell, rest and use support when necessary. Do not force yourself to proceed and jeopardize your health, because your wellbeing is more important, and Japan will always be there until your next visit! Please take care!

And that concludes my introduction to Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine! Have you ever visited a shrine that felt like it was from another world? Or do you have a favorite spiritual spot in Japan? Let me know in the comments—I’d love to hear from you! And if you’re planning a trip to Kumamoto, don’t forget to book your accommodations and rental car using my links:

Flights and Car Rentals: Trip.com
Hotels: Agoda

Happy travels, and may your journey to Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine be as magical as mine! ✨

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Ever dreamed of standing above a sea of clouds, watching the sun rise over a mystical landscape? That’s exactly what I had in mind when I set my alarm for an ungodly hour to visit Kunimigaoka (国見ヶ丘), one of Takachiho’s most famous viewpoints.

Knowing how magical sea of clouds (or how we also call it unkai) looks whenever I promoted it during my time working as Hoshino Resorts Tomamu's event interpreter for a few occasions, I looked forward to seeing the unkai with my very own eyes!

Spoiler alert: I didn’t get to see unkai, but the sunrise was absolutely breathtaking. But since I did my research so here’s how it all went down—and maybe with this you can also know how you can plan your own adventure!

Blogpost Overview

The Early Morning Adventure
The Disappointment (and the Silver Lining)
When to Visit for the Sea of Clouds
How to Get to Kunimigaoka
What to Bring
Final Thoughts: A Lesson in Letting Go

The Early Morning Adventure

After the Yokagura last night, I had a good soak in the hot spring during my stay with Kamigakure, slept at 11pm and woke up at 4 in the morning just for another quick hot spring session while waiting for the girlies to wake up.

Our day started at 5:00 AM (yes, you read that right). We were staying at Kamigakure (book your stay here for a luxurious experience!), and the staff had kindly told us that the sunrise would be around 5:20AM for the day we wanted to catch the unkai, and catching the sea of clouds is a game of luck where there's nothing guaranteed. Still, being somebody who has never seen unkai before, we were determined to try! After a quick cup of tea (thank you, Kamigakure for the complimentary coffee and tea), we hopped into our rental car and drove the 10 minutes to Kunimigaoka.

The drive was peaceful, and we're yawning as we traveled. By the time we arrived, the sky was just beginning to lighten, and there are already so many early birds there, already setting up their cameras! We can't even find ourselves a seat at first so we walked around while we waited.

The Disappointment (and the Silver Lining)

Warm and toasty!

After settling myself on a nearby swing, I looked across the hills around Takachiho and had a feeling we are not going to see the unkai today. As the sun began to rise, it confirmed my intuition—the sea of clouds wasn’t going to make an appearance. After all, the days before had been very sunny, especially when the autumn season is known to be a little drizzly, which meant the conditions weren’t right for the clouds to form. I’ll admit, I was honestly more than just a little disappointed—I’d been dreaming of that iconic view for weeks since I didn't manage to see it back when I was in Hokkaido as well!

But then, the sun peeked over the horizon, and it was like the gods gathered around to paint! The sky turned into a blue canvas with hues of pinks, purples, oranges, and golds, casting a warm glow over the rolling hills and forests below, and the warmth of the day thawing the coldness all over my face and arms, bringing so much comfort in the serene view. It was magical in its own way, and I quickly forgot about the missing clouds. Sometimes, nature has its own plans, and they’re just as beautiful.

When to Visit for the Sea of Clouds

A bench! After walking away from the crowd!

If you’re determined to see the sea of clouds (and I don’t blame you—it’s stunning!), here’s what you need to know:

Best Time of Year: The sea of clouds is most likely to appear from late autumn to early spring (October to March), when the temperature difference between day and night is significant.
Best Time of Day: Arrive 30–60 minutes before sunrise. The clouds usually form in the early morning and dissipate as the day warms up.
Weather Conditions: You’ll need a combination of high humidity, cool temperatures, and calm winds. Rain the day before increases your chances, but sunny days (like ours) make it less likely.

Pro tip: Check the weather forecast and ask your accommodation staff for advice (and depart earlier than informed). They’re usually in the know about local conditions!

How to Get to Kunimigaoka

Kunimigaoka is located about 15 minutes by car from Takachiho town center. Depending on where you stay, the time may vary. Above is an embedded map for Kunimigaoka's location, and here’s how to get there:

By Car:

If you’re staying at Kamigakure, it’s a short and scenic drive (route here). It takes about less than 10 minutes to reach the parking lot. Signs are also available so navigating around is easy!
To us, renting a car is the most convenient option, especially for early morning trips. Consider booking a rental car through Trip.com for a smooth experience!

By Public Transportation:

Unfortunately, as far as I've researched for convenient transportation, I would not recommend it. Not only is public transportation is limited, there are simply no service early enough to catch the sea of clouds.
If you're staying in Takachiho without a rental car, perhaps requesting for a taxi in advance could work (making an arrangement via the hotel in advance can be an option!) but they can get a little costly since you'd likely want the driver to wait for you to send you back to your hotel as well.
Walking is also not a good idea especially during midnight, due to safety reasons because it'd be quite a hike, and with the humidity? Please scrape the idea off your mind.

What to Bring

Warm Clothing: Mornings in Takachiho can be cold, especially during the cooler months. Layer up with a jacket, scarf, and gloves.
Portable Chair (Optional): While there are chairs near the observation deck, they can get occupied easily. The observation deck can get chilly, and having something to sit on makes the wait for sunrise or sea of clouds more comfortable. Or if it's inconvenient, you can always stand around and even look for nearby swings to sit on!
Camera or Smartphone: Whether you catch the sea of clouds or just the sunrise, you’ll want to capture the moment. You might want to also bring some kairo (heated pads) in case if your phone decides to shut itself down due to the cold weather and winds, or even just to keep yourself warm!
Thermos of Coffee or Tea: Trust me, a warm drink makes the early wake-up call much more bearable! Also it feels like a luxury to have a warm drink when you're seated comfortably while waiting for the sunrise during the colder season, no?
Patience and Flexibility: Nature is unpredictable, so go with an open mind. Even if you don’t see the sea of clouds, the sunrise is worth it.

Final Thoughts: A Lesson in Letting Go

It's crowded here, but it was quiet and serene.

While I didn’t get to see the unkai, the experience taught me a valuable lesson: sometimes, the best moments are the ones you don’t plan for. Watching the sunrise at Kunimigaoka was a reminder to appreciate the beauty in front of me, even if it wasn’t what I’d envisioned.

In addition, the days I've had so far were great! No rains, and things did happen smoothly and everything had been very enjoyable and pleasant. Not to mention, what comes after the sunrise was the highlight for that day too! Blessings are everywhere!

So, if you’re planning a trip to Takachiho, I highly recommend adding Kunimigaoka to your itinerary. Whether you catch the sea of clouds or just a stunning sunrise, it’s an experience you won’t forget. And if you’re looking for a cozy place to stay, book your stay at Kamigakure here—it’s the perfect base for your adventures!

Have you ever chased a natural phenomenon like the sea of clouds? Or do you have a favorite sunrise spot you’d like to share? Let me know in the comments—I’d love to hear from you! And if you’re planning a trip to Takachiho, don’t forget to book your accommodations and rental car using my links:

Flights and Car Rentals: Trip.com
Hotels: Agoda

Happy travels, and may your adventures be as magical as a Takachiho sunrise! ✨

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Hello everyone, I'm back to write about my second day in Japan! In my previous post I've talked about how my friends and I planned our trip to Kyushu, so in the following posts I'll be sharing our itinerary in as many details as I can remember!

Day 2 of our Kyushu adventure was packed with excitement—from picking up our rental car to exploring Kokura Castle and the charming port town of Mojiko. Here’s how it all unfolded! As it can get a little lengthy, here's an overview to help you navigate around the post!

Getting Ready for the Day

In case you missed my posts earlier, my flight was rebooked with Friend B due to our connecting flight from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore being cancelled, so this is a day where we check out, collect our rental car, and pick Friend A up from Fukuoka Airport before we officially begin our road trip!

Sandwich bar at Quintessa Hotel Fukuoka Hakata Relax & Sleep

At Quintessa Hotel Fukuoka Hakata Relax & Sleep, you can see a breakfast bar that offers various kinds of bread (and even flatbread!), with various selections of topping from mentaiko (a popular item from Hakata, also a popular souvenir) to veggies, cheese, and more! If you're brave enough to try natto (fermented soy beans), you can also try it here!

My breakfast @ Quintessa Hotel Fukuoka Hakata Relax & Sleep

As someone who eats a lot, I managed to get my fill of chawanmushi, scrambled egg, miso soup, a few cups of drinks, yogurt, some flatbread to make my custom 'burrito' to experiment different kinds of toppings, sausages, potato salad, tuna, ham, avocado, tomatoes, and different sorts of vegetable combination that I don't quite remember, but I'm glad I felt full!

After our breakfast, we double checked our room to make sure we didn't leave anything behind, we checked out and dragged our luggage to our rental car pick-up spot - Budget Rent-a Car!

Picking Up the Rental Car

I'll write another post someday on the details on how we picked our rental car because it is going to be a long talk if I were to go to the details. Long story short, as this was our first time renting a car in Japan, we wanted to ensure everything went smoothly while staying within budget. After assessing various criteria, we decided to rent from a branch about a 10-minute walk from our hotel.

However, since we had quite an amount of luggage, dragging them to the shop slowed us down slightly, and we arrived later than expected.

The store had a multilingual staff who speaks Mandarin, Japanese and English. However I absolutely did not realize that and communicated with them in Japanese until another group of Mandarin-speaking tourists entering the shop when we were almost done.

We took some time here as we apparently needed passport copies with the arrival stamps for every driver involved - and Friend A is still pending customs clearance by the time we were picking up the car, so we waited for her in order to get the car in advance.

As for why we insisted on having her information instead of just registering with Friend B's details alone - it's for safety reasons, as well as for insurance reasons. In an unfortunate case where your rented vehicle gets into an accident and they did find out that the driver is not registered, your claim will not be valid! With this trip being our very first self-drive trip, we absolutely did NOT want to risk anything (as a law-abiding citizen, of course, but if you're a risk-taker... that's on you, I do not condone irresponsible acts) especially when we are in a foreign country!

Thankfully, upon explaining (nicely) to the store, they accepted a clear image of my friend's immigration pass (the little stamp with Mt. Fuji with a QR code) and we managed to collect our car!

And we drove straight to the airport to wait for our friend to meet us at the right entrance, only to go round and round because there were renovation works going around so we can't just park anywhere like how we do in Malaysia (lol).

Right behind the bus station that brings you to Hakata...

With many apologies to taxi drivers (they assumed we're picking up people illegally without a proper license to do so because it was actually a thing...) and a lot of 'where are you' texts, Friend A was finally with us! With our rental car and everything else ready, we hit the road for Kokura, eager to explore its historic castle and gardens!

Onwards to Kokura

Due to unforeseen reasons, our road trip was delayed significantly, so we decided to just go on a slow pace, and fill our stomachs as it's almost lunch time by the time we arrived at Kokura. Plus, Friend A needed a meal too!

After driving for 1.5 hours from the airport, and spending time to search for a proper parking lot, we ended up parking at Riverwalk, since it's adjacent to Kokura Castle, and offers a lot for our dining and shopping needs!

Cushion-shopping took us a while, but hey, if it's for comfort for the next few days, why not? We'll think about how to bring the cushion home when the time comes since that thing is gonna stay in the car for the next 5 days or so anyway!

As Asians, do we want to have rice for our meal? Definitely. But as tourists, do we want to try something a little different? Of course! So we spent some time shopping for cushions in DAISO (mainly for comfort in the next few days of driving), we went to the 4th floor to take a look at the restaurants, and decided to dine in Gohantotororo Toromugi.

Tonkatsu Lunch at Gohantotororo Toromugi

Don't get me wrong, other restaurants are good too! There are also a lot of variations! But Gohantotororo Toromugi offers grated yam in their meals and it isn't exactly a common thing we can see back in Malaysia. Plus, they offer rice AND tonkatsu, so it became an immediate choice after walking past a number of restaurants offering cuisines we commonly see in Kuala Lumpur!

Grated yam, or called tororo (not to be mistaken by Totoro from the famous Ghibli movie), is said to be healthy for us. It can be paired with your meals, and the taste itself isn't exactly flavorful. However, it has a unique flavor and texture!

Rice with tororo

In terms of thickness, I find tororo less thick than pumpkin purees, but its fluidity is closer to the typical Chinese wat-tan-hor gravy, except that it's added with another load of corn starch. Even the waitress advised against us to order it for all three of us, knowing that we came from overseas, so being the only adventurous one (culinary-wise), I ordered it for myself and shared it with my friends - turns out it was really a good decision because I too, was the only one who enjoyed it because it felt like something new.

We all ordered tonkatsu, and it was easily one of the best tonkatsu we had throughout our entire trip, and definitely much better than any of the ones we've had in Malaysia (oh Japan you spoil my palette so much).

Tonkatsu at Gohantotororo Toromugi - Just look at how crispy it is!

Crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and with the good combination of sweetness in the paired tonkatsu sauce that also gave out a hint of aroma from the sesame within, I easily finished three bowls of rice in a sitting!

You're supposed to scoop the rice from the black bowl into the white bowl with a spatula, but as someone with an insatiable appetite, however... I used the black container as my bowl... (table manners where Jin, whereeeeee)

Best of all? Gohantotororo Toromugi offered free refills! For both their rice and tea! Do you know how delightful that sounds for me? That I refilled my rice container THREE times! Not with the white bowl, but the black rice container! All full! I was OVERJOYED!!

Free refills!

In fact, I was so overjoyed at the sight of the big rice cooker I ate my tonkatsu slowly just so I can eat more rice, and ignored the gazes from everyone around me as I happily refilled my rice because I knew we are all going to have a long day of walking!

And right after our meal, we left the cushion in the car and walked straight to Kokura Castle Garden!

Kokura Castle Garden

After devouring that delicious tonkatsu (and three bowls of rice, no less), we were ready for a leisurely stroll. Kokura Castle Garden, with its serene ponds and lush greenery, was the perfect spot to unwind. Nestled right next to Kokura Castle, this traditional Japanese garden offers a tranquil escape from the city’s hustle and bustle—exactly what we needed after a hearty meal.

Kokura Castle Garden is the perfect spot since it was just nearby our lunch place! Nestled right next to Kokura Castle, this traditional Japanese garden is a hidden gem that offers a tranquil escape with its meticulously designed landscapes, koi-filled ponds, and charming tea houses. It’s the kind of place where you can slow down, take a deep breath, and truly appreciate the beauty of nature.

Kokura Castle Garden Pond

With audio guides, we learnt a lot about the design and culture significance. It's wonderful that you can receive multilingual audio guide in different languages as long as you are connected to their network!

After making payment for a combination ticket to the castle and the garden, we relaxed ourselves in the garden and enjoyed the soothing breeze.The garden is designed in the classic kaiyū-shiki style, which means it’s meant to be enjoyed as you stroll along its winding paths.

Designed after a samurai's residence with a lord's garden, every turn in Kokura Castle Garden reveals something new—a small bridge arching over a crystal-clear stream, a cluster of vibrant flowers, or a perfectly pruned pine tree that looks like it belongs in a painting. The attention to detail is incredible, and you can tell that every stone, plant, and water feature has been carefully placed to create harmony and balance.

Another view towards where we sat and relax

With the central pond being its highlight that is home to many colorful koi fish, it was relaxing to watch them glide gracefully through the water - almost therapeutic. We even caught a glimpse of a turtle! For those who love a bit of history, the garden also features a traditional tea house where you can experience a proper Japanese tea ceremony (check for details here). It’s a great way to immerse yourself in the culture and take a moment to reflect on your journey. If you are also interested in cultural lectures in Japanese, there are lectures available in various topics in tea, incense, Japanese calligraphy, and much more! Class details here.

After spending a little over an hour here, we decided that it's time to depart to Kokura Castle so we can still make it to Mojiko!

Kokura Castle

With just a short walk, we arrived at Kokura Castle. Unlike the more famous castles of Japan, Kokura Castle carries a unique charm—it doesn’t scream for attention, but once you step inside its grounds, you’ll find yourself drawn in by its history and beauty. This is because it is actually a restored castle, where the townsmen decided to go for aesthetics instead of restoring it back to its original style after its destruction due to a fire.

Kokura Castle Exterior

From the looks of it, you might think that the castle has only four stories. We thought so too! But turns out, the keep is five-stories! With its striking white facade with dark wooden accents, the interior is where you’ll find displays of samurai armor, historical records, and an observation deck offering a panoramic view of the city.

Outside, the castle garden is filled with cherry blossoms. While we visited during autumn, it did not lose its beauty. But we figured that it would look spectacular during mid-spring, especially during the cherry blossom season when the soft pink petals flutter and contrast beautifully against the castle’s walls. If you time it right, you might even catch a festival or local performances bringing the castle grounds to life!

As Kokura is spot famed for its history with samurais, it is no surprise that you’ll immediately be welcomed by exhibits dedicated to the Hosokawa family, the feudal lords who once ruled over Kokura. Their armor, weapons, and personal belongings are on display, giving you a sense of what life was like for these powerful figures. I couldn’t help but marvel at the intricate details of the samurai armor—it’s hard to imagine wearing something so heavy and elaborate into battle!

Exhibits

One of the highlights for me was the replica of the castle’s original tenshu (main tower). It’s a stunning recreation that shows how the castle looked during its heyday, complete with traditional architecture and period-accurate furnishings.

As you make your way up the floors, you’ll find exhibits that delve into the daily life of the castle’s inhabitants. From kitchen utensils to ceremonial items, these artifacts paint a vivid picture of what life was like for both the ruling class and the common people.

Of course, when we visit a keep, and knowing it is also a place built in era with battles, there is definitely military history involved! Fret not, for those interested in the castle’s military history, there’s a floor dedicated to the strategies and tactics used during battles. Maps, models, and interactive displays explain how the castle was defended and how it played a role in the region’s conflicts. It’s fascinating to see how much thought went into every aspect of the castle’s design, from its strategic location to its defensive features.

And of course, no visit to Kokura Castle would be complete without a trip to the observation deck at the top! Places and landmarks were also seen, so we spent some time looking around! The panoramic views of Kitakyushu gave us a refreshing view, and it’s the perfect way to end our visit in this treasure trove of history, culture, and art. On a clear day, you can even see as far as the Kanmon Strait—it’s a reminder of just how strategically important this castle once was.

As we decided to leave our super duper heavy luggage in our hotel, we drove back to our hotel in Rakuten STAY Kokura Station, Kitakyushu, Japan.

Checking in to Our Hotel

Rakuten STAY Kokura Station, Kitakyushu, Japan Exterior

As the hotel comes with a self check-in feature, we had a minor hiccup but was soon met with their remote support and everything went well! That being said, we were VERY delighted at the sight of our super spacious twin room!

Rakuten STAY Kokura Station, Kitakyushu, Japan

Due to the lack of availability of the triple room, we booked their twin room that was meant for triple use. And since I actually found their bed a little too soft for my liking, I volunteered to sleep on the sofa, which happened to be more comfortable for me even though I slept in a pretty bad posture with my leg hanging and curling up and everything.

After the short break and unloading everything, we headed straight to Mojiko!

Mojiko Sunset, here we come!

The home to baked curry, the port for trades, the retro buildings! As soon as I set my eyes on pictures of Mojiko, I knew we had to drop by for our visit! Nestled along the northern tip of Kyushu in Kitakyushu City, this charming port town whispers tales of its past through its preserved Meiji and Taisho-era architecture.

Once a bustling international trade hub, Port of Moji (Mojiko) has since transformed into a nostalgic getaway, blending Western-style buildings, seaside views, and a laid-back atmosphere that feels worlds apart from the busy city streets.

We're here!

After driving for an hour or so (and hopelessly searching around for a parking lot), we were immediately welcomed by the breeze, just perfect for me, but a little too cold for my friends. As we walked along the waterfront, we arrived at Mojiko Station, a beautifully restored wooden railway station that dates back to 1914—one of the few remaining of its kind in Japan. And that's when my stomach started feeling unwell — a little TMI, but my period was not being cooperative and I had a major overflow issue.

So I ended up spending time in the public toilet, and for once, I missed the bidet we have back in Malaysia. Sure, Japanese toilets are wonderful, but as someone who uses a menstrual cup to be more eco-friendly? I really appreciated Malaysia's toilets more now. (Well, at least the seat was warm, so it still helped!)

There's just something special about red brick buildings

After we were done, we did some shopping, and walking more along the town we found more retro-style cafés, boutique shops, and museums that tell the story of its rich maritime history! And since we arrived just in time for sunset, we also walked along Blue Wing Drawbridge for a sunset view in this timeless town!

Blue Wing Drawbridge

If you are a fan of sightseeing trains, you might want to have more time here in Mojiko, because there's actually a cute sightseeing train that runs along the waterfront called Shiokaze-go (潮風号)! We happened to also manage to catch a good glimpse of it too! If you have the chance, come and enjoy the sight of Mojiko's waterfront in its old-school design and open windows, it’s like stepping into a scene from the past. Perfect for soaking in that sea breeze while enjoying the nostalgic vibes of Mojiko.

Shiokaze-go

After strolling around a little more and deciding that we're a little too tired after a lot of walking (we're talking about 15k steps on a supposedly 'chill' day), we decided to grab some yaki curry from Mojiko Retro - but we were not exactly lucky. The restaurant wasn't open, so we end up returning to Kokura to dine in a nearby shopping mall while shopping for some kairo (stick-on self-heating pads) because we'll be heading to Beppu on the next day, and it might be cold!

Famires Dinner in Saizeriya Kokura

So, we shopped a little in SAINTcity Shopping Mall, and pondered what to have for dinner, and we passed by Saizeriya! For Friend A and me, who both missed famires (family restaurants) in Japan, we immediately knew it's the right place for us to have dinner! And guess what, there's also yaki curry on the menu!

There's a reason why we both LOVE dining at Saizeriya. Maybe it’s the way the warm scent of baked cheese and tomato sauce greets me the moment we step inside, or maybe it’s just the sheer relief of knowing I can eat to my heart’s content without my wallet crying in protest. Sure, it’s no fine dining, but that’s the beauty of it— full of comfort, no pretense, no pressure, just the quiet joy of a good meal at an unbelievably reasonable price. I can sit back, sip on a cup of free-flowing corn soup, and let the world slow down for a while.

The limited picture of our dinner because I focused on eating a little too much

And of course, there’s the food—uncomplicated but satisfying. Their pizzas? A guilty pleasure I refuse to give up. Their pastas? A dependable friend, always there when I need comfort food. Their soup? A soothing friend there for you when you needed to relax and calm down, so warm and flavorful. And let’s not even get started on the legendary affordable drink bar.

I mean, where else can I mix cola, tea, and melon soda into some Frankenstein concoction just because I can? Saizeriya isn’t just about the food; it’s about the whole experience—the little moments of indulgence, the nostalgia of past visits, and the quiet understanding that sometimes, happiness is as simple as a plate of cheesy baked rice in a no-frills restaurant.

And just like that, we ended our day in a nice shower, watched TV, ate some extra umegae-mochi that Edahiro-san and her husband bought for us but we couldn't finish (thank goodness they still taste the same, can't say the same if it's left for another day), and I slept on the sofa as soon as I finished applying some muscle relief patches for my feet.

Have you visited Mojiko and Kokura? Share your experiences in the comments below! If you find this blog post informative, feel free to share it around to your friends! See you until my next post, where I'll share my experience in Beppu, including our Michelin-starred accommodation!

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Table of Contents

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine - An Introduction

The Name: What Does It Mean?

The Myths: Gods, Legends, and a Cave

Architecture and Design

The Visiting Path: A Journey Through Nature

Hall of Worship: Where Kami Resides

Ugeto-Iwa Cave: A Window to the Divine

How to Visit

Tips for Visitors

Blogpost Overview

The Early Morning Adventure

The Disappointment (and the Silver Lining)

When to Visit for the Sea of Clouds

How to Get to Kunimigaoka

By Car:

By Public Transportation:

What to Bring

Final Thoughts: A Lesson in Letting Go

Content Overview

Getting Ready for the Day

Picking Up the Rental Car

Onwards to Kokura

Tonkatsu Lunch at Gohantotororo Toromugi

Kokura Castle Garden

Kokura Castle

Checking in to Our Hotel

Mojiko Sunset, here we come!

Famires Dinner in Saizeriya Kokura

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