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If you are looking for a unique experience around Kagoshima, never miss the famous Ibusuki no Tamatebako, or also known as Ibutama!

With a monotone exterior, this limited express train was designed with a local folktale in mind. In my previous post on Reasons why you should visit Kagoshima, I have briefed a little on the naming of the train. The name of this scenic train was behind a legendary Japanese folktale called Taro Urashima, as Ibusuki is the base of this story, and “Tamatebako” means “treasure box”, which is the most essential part of the folktale.

The Folktale surrounding Ibusuki no Tamatebako


In the folktale, there is a place called the Dragon Palace (Ryugyu-jo) under the sea. Urashima Taro, a fisherman, journeyed there and was entertained by their princess as a reward for saving a turtle. Taro spent three days with the princess, and wanted to return home to see his mother. The princess gave him a box and told him not to open it as it will protect him from harm. 

When he arrived home, everything changed. His home is gone, and his mother is no longer in sight. When he asked around, 300 years have passed (In some versions it’s longer, there are different versions of this story but this version is what my Japanese teacher taught me). Out of grief, he opened the box and smoke emerged with a sad yet sweet voice. Taro instantly turned old with long beards and bent back. That sweet voice told him that the box contains his old age - which is why he shouldn’t be opening the box. 

The train gives the same feeling, in my opinion. Everything is beautiful inside and time passes so quickly throughout the train ride!

The route


Ibusuki no Tamatebako connects Kagoshima-Chuo Station and Ibusuki Station. Compared to the original, standard train that will take about 1.5 hours to reach there, this train takes only 55 minutes!

Along the journey, you can see Sakurajima from the train, purchase snacks, drinks or souvenirs from the crew while hearing guides about the scenery along the way!

As the train runs along the Kagoshima bay, or called Kinko bay, Sakurajima’s view will surely be memorable throughout the train ride. As this train runs faster than standard trains, it only has three stops including the terminal stations: Kagoshima-Chuo Station, Kiire, and Ibusuki.


The interiors of the train



Ibusuki no Tamatebako has an interesting exterior and cozy woody interior. If you love photos, and something Instagrammable, wear pretty clothes! It has many spots for photos, whether with the staff, with the train, or with their uniform of Ibutama! I personally love the aesthetics of the train because of the warm and cozy vibes, with the large windows that makes the scenic view even better.



In the train, they also sell special snacks and drinks! You can also purchase some nice souvenirs. There was also a fun quiz related to Ibusuki too! 



I also love how the train was decked in old fashioned seats! The arrangements feels nostalgic. Its beautiful interiors, scenic views, and the smooth ride makes this ride memorable. Usually, you will be stuck in your assigned seats as you need to reserve your train tickets before boarding (you can reserve for free with your Kyushu Area Pass), but if there were unoccupied seats you can get more freedom to move around. 




If you wanted something that screams Kagoshima, try the black sesame pudding! It uses local ingredients and this flavorful pudding is only limited on Ibutama itself! It’s a delicious dessert to enjoy while you enjoy the views.


The enjoyment and recommendation


If you are looking for a special experience, then try scenic rides in Japan! It’s so relaxing and it changes how you see the country on a different pace. Best of all, free reservations with a JR Kyushu Pass! You can reserve in advance in any JR Stations in Kyushu that has a Midori no Madoguchi, or do it in Ibusuki Station/ Kagoshima-Chuo station if there are slots left. 


It is also enjoyable to see the locals here. Whenever this train is departing or arriving, the locals give you a friendly farewell with flags. You also get a free souvenir of a stamped card to say you went on the train ride. 



Overall, this is a very enjoyable and fun scenic train ride. There are three trains per day, usually at 10am, 1pm and 3pm unless there will be schedule changes later of the year (since we are in a pandemic wave as I write right now). However, since it is popular, I recommend reserving in advance!

If you’re looking for JR Pass from Malaysia, visit this site! It's a trusted Japanese Agency! slightly smiling face 

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Throughout my career, many people have asked me these question:

What's your favorite place in Japan?

If there's only one place that you can go, which part of Japan will you be going back to? 

I always have the same answer - Onomichi. And here are 10 reasons why.


1. It has some nice, old school, retro trains

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I love these trains because they have these retro feeling - wide windows, comfortable seats where you can face people for a nice conversation, and a nice view!

These seats can be rotated when the train moves to the opposite direction too!

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What I also like about these trains is that, they have coaches that has air conditioner! Although the weather was 15 degrees during my visit in April, I am not a big fan of the strong rays from the sun, so entering the colder compartment is a blessing!

And since some of the compartments had colder air, I can see why the doors are also manual. You have these buttons that you can open and close the compartment door.

And no, the doors will not open automatically if you stick your hand between the doors, so be careful and press the open button from inside/outside the compartment if you plan to enter when the doors are closing!


2. You can board a 100 yen ferry

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If you are a fan of cycling, you should never miss the Shimanami Kaido cycling route!
Onomichi is your starting (or ending if you're coming from Shikoku) point of the cycling path and it's a beautiful experience.

To start with your cycling journey in the Shimanami Kaido, board the 100 yen ferry to Mukaishima! The ferry port is just right opposite of the JR Onomichi station. The uncle is very friendly and you definitely won't need to worry about not having enough of 100yen coins. Just give him a 1000 yen and he'll give you 900 yen of coins (minus the fare, of course!)


3. Beautiful Sakura Blooms

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Besides the Shimanami Kaido, you can also see some late bloomers of sakura in mid-April in Mukaishima! If you are lucky, you can also see some pretty blooms on the mountains of Onomichi in mid-April too!

Plus point is that, Mukaishima is not a noisy or crowded place at all. Even if you have no plans to cycle, there are quire some sakura-viewing spots that you can check out! They have a big map and a board stating the blooming status of the flowers!


4. Cultural Preservation 

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One thing that I definitely appreciate is the efforts to preserve cultural events!

Every year, Onomichi's Senkoji area will be having a haiku competition! Entries come from the entire Japan and winners will have their original works displayed on lanterns in Senkoji Park!

There are many buildings that are also traditional and efforts of turning akiya (empty houses) into inns or tourist spots are also brilliant over Onomichi!

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The accommodation I stayed was a teahouse with a history of more than a century! Old building, floors are traditionally squeaky, but the atmosphere here was comfortable. I'd love to hike again and stay for a couple more nights!


5. The Mysterious Touch

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From what I've known about the concept of Ihatov, it is a concept from Miyazawa Kenji, a famous Japanese children storybook writer. In his works, he sets his story in a fictional place named Ihatov - a fictional land based on Iwate prefecture.

Now the question is: Hiroshima and Iwate are two different prefectures, so why is there an Ihatov house in Onomichi of Hiroshima?

Since Ihatov is Kenji's fictional dreamland, I'd say that this place is the owner's dreamland.

The owner is mysterious, and is definitely a fan of owls. There are a lot of things that are owl-related in this small space, and on days of full moon, you can enjoy seeing the moonlight from his shop while ordering some nice aromatic tea. 

The owner is the sole person working in this place, and it is a place that you should come and relax, and does everything in a slow-paced manner. Though there's no English menu, but there are photos to help you to point and order. The items are a little on the pricey side, but is delicious, and I'd pay for a change of pace to a Ghibli-like world. 

This place is also a no-photo place, but it is also a good reason why you should slow down your pace and look around the walls, ceilings, and different corners of this place. You see a lot of owl-motif items and it's lovely! I'd say that it's the best to keep things mysterious so the owner can keep this place up and running. :) 


6. Cats are EVERYWHERE.

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Although you have probably heard of the cat island in Japan, Onomichi is a town where cats are free to roam around and are loved by everyone. 

Each of the cats are named and well cared of! Their hairs are all fluffy, clean and soft. You can find them around Senkoji, and even in their art museum! 

If you've heard of the cats that wanted to enter an art museum, it is in Onomichi! 


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They had this cat alley called Neko no Hosomichi in Onomichi of Hiroshima. If you have sharp eyes, you will see a lot of cats along this place. It's pretty easy to find if you walk down from Senkoji Temple! 

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Cats are literally everywhere up here.


7. Beautiful Sunset View

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From Senkoji Park, you can see the change of the sky colors. Really beautiful.

It's an easy 15-minutes hike (or lazier, use the ropeway but the operation hours aren't long) from the bottom! Stairs are well-paved so no special equipment are needed too.


8. Onomichi Ramen

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One thing that I love about Onomichi is of course, their ramen! Shukaen is one of their famous ramen places (not halal) in Onomichi! The broth is not thick, but flavorful and it is a taste that I miss from home. 


One bowl is only 600 yen, very affordable! The queue is long but is not bad, though you would want to come earlier than 12PM! 

Image may contain: food and indoorOn the other hand, their gyoza is really nice! It has a crispy base that I don't really eat from home, but knowing how great it tastes I started to learn how to make these at home now.

Though I'd never be able to replicate the flavor. 


9. The Aesthetics

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If you are zooming your way past Onomichi on the Sanyo Shinkansen, and comparing the views of the architectures from the train, you will notice that Onomichi's buildings has a form of uniformity (in terms of color) that is not seen in other parts along the Sanyo line. It is eye-pleasing, and is very relaxing looking at the building on the hills.

If you think that those anime high school life scenarios are fake, you really need to give Onomichi a day to sense the quiet, serene scene. They still keep the traditional fumikiri (the stop bar in the intersection of your road and the train's track) sounds. It's a very nostalgic sound!

10. Cheap Food

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One thing that is important for budget travelers is always food, and Onomichi's Central Shopping Street has different stores that sells daily groceries! Strawberries, bentos, mochi, and greens can be purchased within a few hundred yen. Tastes great, and keeps the tummy happy!


Sometimes, I'd say that I wanted to retire in this town if I could! I haven't talked much on the sightseeing part of Onomichi at all, but I'll leave it for next time. :)

Hope this post would bring you more insight about Onomichi and hopefully one day, you will be visiting there too!

Until my next update!

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About Me

Jin
Jin
Freelance Interpreter & Translator
Type A  ·  ENFP  ·  Virgo–Libra Cusp
Interpreting Experience
・Hoshino Resorts Tomamu
Travel Events
・Gifu Prefecture Tourism
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Former travel consultant, Japanese agency (3+ years)
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岐阜県通訳・旅行コンサルタント経験有。
4ヶ国語話せます。
日本文化とモバゲーが大好きです!
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