Complete 2026 food guide to Shirakawa-go: seasonal sansai mountain vegetables (the 'haru no mezame no aji' bitterness explained), where to taste doburoku year-round with map codes, Hoba Miso pairings, Muslim-friendly restaurants including Irori's dedicated halal menu, Ochūdo Cafe, and Hanamizuki — plus the dietary phrase table for strict observance.