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Shin-an Ryokan Beppu Review: Private Onsen Experience in Kyushu Shin-an Ryokan Beppu Review: Private Onsen Experience in Kyushu

Private Onsen Bliss at Shin-an Ryokan in Beppu!

A Malaysian trio reviews the 'Bun' room at Michelin-starred Shin-an Ryokan - complete with private indoor & outdoor hot springs!
★★★★★ 5/5

Ryokan Information

🏯
Name: Shin-an Ryokan
📍
Location: Beppu city center, Kyushu
🛏️
Room: Bun (Maisonette w/ Private Onsen)
👥
Occupancy: 3 Malaysian girls road-tripping Kyushu

Key Features

♨️
Onsen: Private indoor & outdoor hot springs
📏
Size: Spacious 77.83㎡ maisonette
🛁
Amenities: Dyson hair dryer, luxury toiletries
⭐
Special: Michelin-starred authenticity

Discovering Shin-an

When planning our Beppu stay, I initially had my heart set on KAI Beppu by Hoshino Resorts. But with our late arrival after driving from Kokura, we realized we wouldn't maximize a luxury stay. That's how I discovered Shin-an - a charming Michelin-starred ryokan that turned out to be our hidden gem!
Road Trip Tip: When traveling between Kyushu cities, always account for jet lag and travel fatigue! Opting for Shin-an's central location meant we could maximize our limited time.
As three Malaysian girls road-tripping through Kyushu, we appreciated Shin-an's perfect blend of traditional charm and modern comforts. Booking the 'Bun' room directly through their Japanese website (they're also on Agoda) was smooth despite the language barrier - my Japanese skills came in handy!

The Bun Room: Our Traditional Sanctuary

Shin-an Bun room entrance
The entrance to our private sanctuary

For a post with even more details on the ryokan, or if you'd like to check out our self-drive itinerary in Beppu, consider reading here.

Steps into Tranquility

Walking into our 'Bun' room felt like stepping into a tranquil Japanese dream. The 77.83m² maisonette-style space features:
  • A serene downstairs living area with tatami mats
  • Upstairs bedroom with heavenly futons (I'm obsessed!)
  • Traditional shoji sliding doors creating peaceful ambiance
  • Modern amenities like a 50-inch TV and kitchenette
The scent of hinoki cypress from the indoor bath filled the air as we entered - instant relaxation! As Malaysians unaccustomed to such traditional spaces, we were fascinated by every detail.

Futon Happiness

Upstairs, the bedroom had us squealing with delight! The futon setup was perfection - I proudly arranged my pink futon myself. The space was so serene, with minimalist decor that made us feel worlds away from Beppu's city center just outside. Downstairs became our communal hangout spot where we planned our adventures while enjoying the indoor onsen view. The unique layout felt like having our own traditional Japanese house - a luxury we don't experience back in Malaysia!
Shin-an Bun bedroom with added futon
Pure futon happiness upstairs

Onsen Heaven: Private Hot Spring Perfection

Indoor onsen at Shin-an
Soothing indoor rock bath
Outdoor rotenburo at Shin-an
Shin-An's Rotenburo

Bathing in Bliss

The real showstopper? Our private indoor and outdoor hot springs! After exploring Beppu all day, we couldn't wait to try them. Indoor Bath: The hinoki-scented rock bath was perfect for my friends who prefer privacy. The stone tub with steaming mineral water created a spa-like atmosphere. After a day of traveling from Kokura, soaking in 40-60°C therapeutic waters melted our fatigue away. Outdoor Rotenburo: This was MY happy place! The open-air bath under the autumn sky was magical. Though compact, all three of us fit comfortably. Adjusting the temperature to 60°C, I lingered long after my friends retreated, listening to rustling leaves while sipping drinks - pure ambivert heaven!

Luxury Touches & Amenities

Premium Toiletries

From Dr. Ci:Labo skincare sets to yukatas and geta sandals, every detail felt luxurious. The Dyson hair dryer was an unexpected luxury that had us all trying it immediately after our baths!

Thoughtful Extras

We were welcomed with a bottle of wine and enjoyed the service drinks (mineral water, coffee, tea). The fully equipped kitchenette with tableware made snack times convenient.

Perfect Location

Centrally located with excellent restaurant recommendations. We saved money by dining out instead of paying for kaiseki meals, which funded our next ryokan stay in Takachiho!

What We Loved

  • Private indoor AND outdoor onsen in our room
  • Authentic tatami/futon experience we Malaysians adored
  • Michelin-starred quality at reasonable prices
  • Spacious 77.83㎡ layout perfect for groups
  • Central location near Beppu attractions
  • Luxury touches (Dyson dryer, premium toiletries)
  • Serene atmosphere despite city center location
  • Helpful staff with excellent local recommendations

Minor Considerations

  • No in-house restaurant (but surrounded by great options, and cuts down the price so it's technically a big win for us)
  • Japanese website might challenge non-speakers
  • Outdoor bath is compact for 3 people simultaneously
  • Futon setup requires some effort (but it's part of the experience!)

Experience Shin-an Yourself!

Ready for your own onsen retreat in Beppu?

Book the Bun Room Directly (JP Site)
(They're also available on Agoda)
Book via Agoda if you'd prefer an English site

Final Verdict

★★★★★ 5/5

Shin-an's Bun room provided the perfect blend of traditional ryokan experience and private luxury for our Malaysian trio. The private onsen, authentic futon sleeping, and thoughtful amenities made this a highlight of our Kyushu road trip.

Perfect for

Groups/families wanting private onsen
Travelers seeking authentic Japanese experience
Those who value space and location

Consider elsewhere if

You prefer western beds
Need English-speaking staff at all times

Group Travel Tip: For road trippers like us, Shin-an's location near Beppu's main attractions means less driving after check-in. Arrive early to maximize your onsen time! The private baths are perfect for relaxing after a long drive.

Have you experienced Shin-an or other Beppu ryokans? Share your stories below!

© 2025 Jin Travels Japan

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As a Malaysian who can't drive (I have a license but haven't driven for ages so I chose not to drive for public safety lol), watching my friends navigate Japan's roads taught me this: Driving in Japan, and especially in Kyushu, is like playing Initial D arcade game IRL - except that we are law-abiding citizens who dared not to exceed speed limits. Here's everything we wish we knew before our Kyushu road trip!

In this blog post, I'd like to share some tips to help you decide on whether you'll need to rent a car, or if public transportation would be a better choice for you. If you'd like to know more on the essentials and differences between driving in Malaysia and in Japan, I'll try my best to cover it based on our experience in Kyushu.

Before You Go: Malaysian/SG Essentials

Road trip in Aso, view from passenger seat
If you've followed my blog posts since February 2025, you'd probably knew that I had my self-drive trip as a group of three Malaysian girls (with one working in Singapore). There might be questions on whether what should be done, so here are the essentials to know!

🪪 The IDP Hack to Japan (JPJ Malaysia and AA Singapore)

Malaysians: Get your International Driving Permit from JPJ for RM150 (valid 1 year). Singaporeans: Visit AA Singapore (S$20). Pro tip: Apply at least 2 weeks before departure!

For Malaysians, applications for an International Driving Permit (IDP) can be made at any State/Branch JPJ office or at the Malaysian Automobile Association (AAM) office as long as you meet the requirements:

  1. Possess a Competent Driver's License (CDL) that is still valid for more than 1 year
  2. Owner of the license is not blacklisted.

And when you are making your application, the following documents will be required (information accurate as of time of writing, you may refer to JPJ's website for updated details):

  1. Original/copy of Personal Identification (NRIC)
  2. Original Personal Identification if the transaction is made by a representative
  3. Competent Driver's License (CDL) 
  4. 1 passport-sized color photo

 For Singaporeans, applications can be done via online or via their branches (more details on AA Singapore). You'll be required to have the following documentations ready for your application:

  1. A copy of your physical Singapore driving licence (front and back).
  2. A copy of your physical NRIC (front and back) for Singaporeans / PRs.
  3. A copy of your employment pass/FIN Card (front and back) for foreigners.
  4. A clear coloured passport-sized photograph of the IDP applicant in plain, light background
    1. Taken within the last 2 years
    2. Sharp and clear image resolution
    3. Full face is visible
    4. Photographs with watermarks will be rejected
  5. Notes:
    1. Do not submit the photo image on your passport, NRIC or Driving Licence card as there is a watermark on it
    2. Applications will be delayed if the photograph does not meet the requirements.


📱 Connectivity: How to Stay Connected in Japan

Rainbow in Kunen-an visit, from parking lot
Rainbow in Kunen-an visit, from parking lot
For my friends who are both iOS users, Friend A used an eSIM, while Friend B used her international roaming plan. For my case as an Android user (my phone is pretty old, too, a OnePlus Nord CE 5G), getting eSIM can be an option if your phone is compatible with it, but it was an unfortunate case for me because mine isn't compatible, so I bought my SIM card in Fukuoka Airport instead.

CelcomDigi Users Note: I learned this the hard way:
  • Activated 3-day roaming in Singapore (cheaper than 1-day Singapore roaming plan) during my transit in Changi
  • Next morning in Fukuoka - existing roaming blocked Japan activation! — Spent way more just to purchase a SIM card at the airport!
So after learning from my mistakes, I pre-purchase my SIM cards from Malaysia before traveling ever since! And now I'm going to transit in Changi again, I'll just use the airport Wi-Fi, since it's pretty decent and I can clear my end-game content (let me flex my Genshin spiral abyss full star clear!) in the airport!
 
One thing to note is that my phone comes with a dual SIM card slots, so buying an additional SIM card is fine for me. But if your phone doesn't have more than one slots, perhaps an eSIM or a pocket wi-fi will be helpful! There's a reason why I had such a long story about eSIMs and connectivity — it helped us a lot during our trip!


🗺️ GPS: Does it Really Stand for 'Guna Pun Sesat'? 

Rainbow over Kyushu countryside during road trip
Rainbow over Kyushu countryside during road trip
Let me be real honest here. I don't even know much about my own town, so imagine being lost in a foreign country, and especially when you don't speak their language! This is when mobile data comes handy, and there are plenty of applications we can use to navigate around in Japan!

What Apps Did You Use In Japan For Driving?

I knew this question would come, so here's my answer! Throughout our trip in Kyushu, other than our vehicle's GPS, we used Google Maps/ Apple Maps when navigating around! Since Japan has its own system of map codes, it is the easiest for us to research and have our list to know which to key in (helps when I had our trip planned months ahead!). However, there are sometimes some hiccups and changes of plans, so there were once or twice when our map code didn't work out, which is how it led is to using other applications. So, in comparison and based the context for road trips in Japan, we used:

  1. Map Code in our vehicle GPS - Super helpful in updating traffic information and road closures, we know where to detour to! But it's pretty clear that we can only use it in our vehicle so a lot of research on map codes would be required. I did most of my research on Google Maps, then converted the codes to Japan's GPS Map Code through this website.
  2. Google Maps - Useful in cities and major prefectures, could miss information in less popular cities, can go wonky depending on your phone model. It's not exactly perfect for long distance planning, but for our case, we broke down our driving trip pretty well so Google Maps worked fine for us as a backup plan. It can occasionally take us to some pretty random backstreets, though.
  3. Waze - Technically it's usable, but as many place has their names in Japanese, it can be difficult when you don't know how to type in Japanese. Since it also uses Google's API, I'd recommend using Google Maps for foreign travelers, especially first-time drivers since it's likely in a more familiar language and UI for most.
  4. Apple Maps - Similar to Google Maps, a little mid, since it also misses some information sometimes but information are generally reliable. It can be decent for near future travel plans on trains, too! But we didn't really get to experiment much with its accuracy since we relied on our map codes 98% of the time.

Additionally, there are actually other apps that you can also try, such as:

  1. Navitime - Real-time information of traffic congestion, as well as voice-based navigation in areas where your device doesn't have network connection. Works amazing for those who drive a lot in Japan, and it also has a function for you to avoid ETC-only tolls by just toggling the スマートIC利用 checkbox and turn it off to exclude ETC-only interchanges. While not common everywhere, ETC-only interchanges do exist in Oita, Nagasaki, Gifu and Aichi, and perhaps more places in the future to have less manned tolls. (Android/iOS)
  2. OsmAnd - Allows you to download maps to your phone where you can use it even when your phone loses signal. Doesn't have IC avoidance settings for those who'd like to avoid tolls. (Official Site for OsmAnd)
  3. Yahoo Navi - If you can read Japanese completely fine, Yahoo Navi is also wonderful and free to use! The user interface is wonderful in showing traffic signals, showing common stop signs like convenience stores, and also has features to avoid tolls and highways. However, one wrong input can make it a completely wrong trip, so it has its pros and cons. Though if you're a fan of anime you may also occasionally find navigation voice pack that collaborates with franchises! (Android/iOS)

A bonus if you're here for motorcycle trips!

  1. Calimoto - Fun if you're keen to explore motorcycle trips! It even has roads that doesn't show up on Google Maps and Apple Maps. You can toggle 'Avoid toll roads' in your route settings if you don't want to use tolls. (Official Site for Calimoto)
  2. Touring Supporter - It's not exactly free since it has a subscription fee, but it can be worth it when it helps motorcyclists to find parking nationwide! Unfortunately there's also no English version of it as of now. (Website)

On the Road: Boleh-land Meets Zen Driving

Saga City Night View
Saga City Night View
Okay, you've now received your IDP. You've done your trip planning, and even researched for map codes. You also downloaded some apps, or perhaps even searched for YouTube videos to familiarize yourself with traffic rules in Japan (it's slightly different from Malaysia) and mentally simulated your driving experience there. 

"Maybe I'm ready to rent a car," you thought, and yes, you're almost ready and I'm here to share more information that I've personally researched!

🚗 Where to Book Your Rental Car

There are, in fact, plenty of websites or agencies you can book through. Other than popular Japanese travel agencies such as H.I.S. Travel or JTB for the ease of mind, there are also the following websites you can look into (and definitely not the full list):

  1. Toyota Rent a Car - A trusted car rental company that many of my clients have used and recommended for the service and car quality (Website).
  2. Nissan Rent a Car - Toyota's competitor, basically. If you're comparing between Toyota and Nissan cars it's really just up to your personal car preference. (Website)
  3. Nippon Rent a Car - Offers 24h telephone interpreting service for English, Chinese and Korean. However, the booking site uses machine translations so if you're worried about something accidentally mistranslated, you might want to consider other ways. (Website)
  4. ToCoo - A car rental broker. Pricing is also very competitive, but there were some confusions in their information display for their ETC card delivery (we were told that the card is delivered to our hotel instead of being able to pick it up with our car) that made me decide not to use their service. Perhaps a good option if we didn't need KEP for our trip. (Website)
  5. Budget Rent a Car - The website we ended up using. For the same car class, it offers a competitive price. Times and Orix were good too, but we just happened to find Budget's pickup and return point more convenient for our trip at the time of planning. We also managed to only pay when we collect our car instead of being charged ahead of time. (Website)
  6. Orix - Has a large selection of cars and has airport pickup and drop off too. There wasn't an option for me to book it with ETC card, so I skipped booking with this company. (Website)
  7. Times Car Rental - Probably the only company that I personally know will charge ahead of time. If you're fine with it and perhaps to feel more safe with your payment taken to secure your booking, then there are actually no issues with booking with them. (Website)

Pro Tip: If you can understand Japanese and not really in need of the flat-rate passes (like KEP, for example), booking from Japanese websites can decrease the cost of your car rental! But if you wanted English navigation systems in your car, you may have to double check from the respective websites beforehand.

🚗 What Car Size To Pick?

Road Trip Scenery from Aso to Kumamoto
Road Trip Scenery from Aso to Kumamoto
It's easy to just hop into our family car at home for short road trips within the country. However, for longer trips overseas, you'll have to consider the numbers and sizes of your suitcases in total, on top of the number of passengers. For us, a normal four-seater was just enough for the three of us, since we shop a lot, four suitcases, 3 carry on luggage, 2 backpacks and 1 messenger bag are going to take up quite some space in the car, after all (I even had my messenger bag on my lap at all times as the passenger princess).

If you're also traveling with infants or young children, then you'll look into child seats. For those requiring more space to carry wheelchair, surfing board or mountain bikes (and other large items that I could not think of when I write this), you may wish to look for bigger cars that can accommodate to your needs. Be sure that your license type will match the type of vehicle you need in Japan, accommodate to your space needs, and you're all good!

Note that most rental car companies will charge you an additional amount of money for picking a specific car type, or for newer cars. If you have very specific needs, the additional fee will be worth it to ease your worries.

🚗 The ETC Card Secret

Okay, you've probably heard me talking a lot on ETC cards and even KEP now. What are they? You might ask, so to make things simple, it's like the Touch n Go card but in Japan, used for automatic payment of toll fees when driving on Japanese expressways. 

Does it cost money to get the ETC card? Yes, because it also comes with the rental of a reader, and the rental cost is typically around 300 yen plus tax (per day), depending on the car rental company. You then pay the full amount of toll fare to the car rental company when you return your car.

Are they necessary? It depends, really, but I strongly recommend you to book cars with ETC card included. Why? Because there are rural exits like in that only accept ETC since not everywhere is manned now. Also, paying by cash typically takes a little more time, and if you're traveling across multiple prefectures and would need a KEP? That's a necessity, since the KEP works in conjunction.

Also, what's KEP? It's a regional highway pass. KEP is the short for Kyushu Expressway Pass, which was what we used to travel from Fukuoka to Oita, Takachiho, Aso, Kumamoto, and Saga before returning to Fukuoka. We bought it to save some fees on toll expenses, since it comes in a flat rate. For our 6-day KEP, it was 7,600 yen back in our trip. However, there are a few things to note:

  1. KEP comes in multiple days. For now, there are passes that starts from 2 days (6,200 yen) to 10 days (23,800 yen). Pricing is accurate as of late May 2025.
  2. Since the KEP had a price adjustment where the 6-day pass is now 15,000 yen. It is a significant price hike compared to my trip. This means that it will require you to do further research on whether you truly need the pass. 
    1. The math is simple: 
      1. Find the sum of your toll fares
      2. If your fare is significantly more the price of the KEP, buy it.
      3. If your fare is significantly less than the KEP you need, don't buy it
      4. If your fare is more or less the same as the KEP you need, you have two options:
        1. Buy it if you want flexibility to travel to more places that requires highway usage, or
        2. Don't buy it if you're certain you have little flexibility in your trip and you want to save some extra cash. See points (5) and (6) below if you wanted to cut some costs.
  3. KEP doesn't care if you start using the pass on day 2 of your car rental, it charges you based on the day you collected your rental car because it comes together with your ETC card.
  4. KEP does not cover anything outside of Kyushu, and it also doesn't cover Kitakyushu. So your trip to Mojiko is not covered by KEP (Refer here for the coverage map).
  5. If you're following my exact route for your next driving trip to Japan after reading my posts, skip the KEP. You won't spend over 12,000 yen in toll fees even if you visit Kitakyushu. Not sure how to calculate your toll fees? Use NEXCO. You should've done your research on which highways to pass by to have an estimate for your calculations. 
  6. If you still wish to save on toll fares, your best bet is to detour (it can be quite a detour sometimes) by avoiding highways as a whole, but just so you know, gas isn't cheap in Japan. But if you happen to only want to drive from Beppu to Takachiho, and also perhaps between Aso and Kumamoto, you don't really need to worry about toll fares. There are barely any, so this is perhaps a good idea for a short car rental trip without really using the ETC card.
  7. Budget Rent a Car and Toyota Rent a Car have discontinued handling KEP as of May 19 2025.


🛡️ Car Insurance: A Non-Negotiable

Passenger Princess's View from Passenger Seat
In Japan, car rental companies typically offer insurance coverage as part of their basic rental fee. This includes compulsory liability insurance, which covers third-party injuries or deaths, and optional Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) to cover potential deductible costs. Additionally, some companies offer Non-Operation Charge (NOC) waivers.

CDW, often offered by car rental companies, waives the deductible you might have to pay in case of an accident or damage to the vehicle. If you have CDW, you won't be charged for the deductible amount, which can be a significant sum. 

NOC is a charge for the period the car is out of service due to an accident or repair. Some rental companies offer NOC waivers, which can help avoid this additional charge. In the event of a car accident, car theft, car breakdown or stains/damage to the car, if the car needs to be repaired and/or cleaned, without NOC, you can be charged a high fee by the car rental company depending on the situation.

I personally highly recommend a full coverage because we cannot predict what happens to us, and we definitely didn't want to fork out huge amounts of money when we're already in distress. As someone who worked as a travel consultant, I'll also share the following as a general reminder as a just-in-case knowledge, because insurance generally do not cover the following situation for car rentals in Japan, and you as the customer will have to cover for damages:

  • The accident is not reported to the police (or when there is no accident report filed by an officer - filing a police report in Japan is possible and you can generally request for a translator without additional charges) — make sure to file a proper report!
  • Accidents occurring when someone other than the applicant at the time of departure is driving - This is important, because if there are more than one person driving, then all drivers should be registered for the vehicle collection to prevent disputes.
  • Accidents occurring while driving without a driver's license - carry yours with you all the time!
  • Accidents occurring while driving under the influence of alcohol - do NOT drink and drive
  • Accidents occurring while driving during an extended period of rental without permission (not to mention, you'll be charged with penalties for late returns)
  • Violation of other items listed in the rental agreement, etc.
    • Example: Theft of the vehicle while the key is in it, or if you left valuables in your rented vehicle, or whatever caused by negligence

However, note that the above is just general knowledge, and specific terms and conditions will depend on your car rental company and the insurance policy. Please check properly with the terms and conditions before hitting the road, and drive safely without breaking any law!


⛽ Winter Tires: Do I Need Them? Or Will Snow Chains Suffice?

Fortunately, we were traveling during autumn so we didn't need them. Under Japanese traffic law, you must have Winter Tires to drive on snowy/icy roads. Whether you need Winter Tires or not must be judged by yourself on your own responsibility, and in cases like this, I highly recommend you to do proper research on the destinations you're driving in.

It rarely snows in southern Japan to the point winter tires will be completely necessary, but if you do visit Takachiho or Aso, some roads will recommend usage of winter tires. As a Japanese speaker, I also use Jartic to keep myself updated on road conditions. If you do decide to drive in winter, please request for winter tires because that's the top priority (without reserving them you might not get them)!

Additionally, winter tires are enough to drive in snow, and even on roads that are not snow-covered. If you do receive a car without winter tires, snow chains may be needed and you will have to set them yourself at some point (it isn't impossible, but it isn't exactly easy either). Important note is that snow chains should NOT be used on winter tires, and driving on roads that are not snow-covered with snow chains will risk causing damages since you'll need to remove and reequip the chains frequently throughout your journey.

However, expressway use is subject to two special restrictions that may come into effect during and after snowfall: "Winter Tire Restriction" and "Snow Chain Restriction". When "Snow Chain Restriction" is announced, driving on the expressway becomes only permitted to vehicles with chains installed. If you are heading for an area known for its particularly heavy snowfall or anywhere where snow isn't cleared from the road regularly, it is recommended that you bring snow chains too.


⛽ Petrol Stations: Full-Service vs DIY

Well, we know the price for petrol is rising in Malaysia, but when it's in Japan, the price easily doubles from ours. The price range fluctuates on a daily basis and unlike Malaysia that has a fixed pricing nationwide on a weekly basis. Also, Japan's pricing differs from station to station. During our trip, it was about 180 yen per liter in most days, but there are days where it goes a little higher, and a little lower.

Also, there are different types of services for petrol. You may sometimes see 'FS' or 'SS' when you google for petrol stations to plan when to fill your tank while planning for your trip, and that's because they respectively stand for Full-Service and Self-Service!

Service TypeMalaysian Comparison
Full-ServiceLike Petronas Mesra - staff helps
Self-ServiceLike Shell OPT - pay at machine

We discovered some stations charge 2-3% more for credit card payments versus cash - keep some yen notes handy for fuel stops if you wanted to be more money-savvy! But honestly, we wanted things to be quick and easy, so we mostly paid by card to have transaction records for the three of us to even out the payment.

One important thing to note is that there are also anti-static panels in Japanese petrol station that shapes like a red palm. Please touch it before you remove your fuel cap! After removing the fuel cap, take the nozzle for the specified fuel type (green for diesel, red for regular, and yellow for high-octane) and insert it all the way into the fuel tank opening. After checking to make sure it is firmly inserted, pull the trigger to begin filling up the vehicle. You should be given an instructions book by your car rental company.

Also, you will generally be asked to fill the car to a full tank at a petrol station that is less than 5km radius from your car rental shop right before returning it. You can ask the station staff for a mantan (full tank) fill and make sure to ask for the receipt, since your car rental company will be requesting it!

🅿️ Parking Like a Pro

Anyone who knew me will hear me shaking my head when it comes to parking in Japanese major cities. Even our Fukuoka parking for a brief moment costed us a meal (here's why)! Why, just look at our Kyushu parking costs:
  • Fukuoka City: ¥500-1,000/hour (RM15-30)
  • Mojiko: ¥200/2 hours, ¥400/12 hours
  • Beppu: Free for the places we visited
  • Takachiho: Free for the places we visited
  • Kumamoto: ¥1,000/day (RM30)
  • Saga: ¥500/day (RM15)
  • Kunen-an: ¥500/vehicle per visit at park parking lot (RM15)

So, for those wanting to rent a car in city centers, I strongly discourage it in most cases (it's understandable if you have elderly who may have difficulty walking in your group and that can be an exception with planning made). Exceptions aside, from a shopaholic girlie to another shopaholic girlie reading this, even if you were just thinking it's easier to carry everything you shopped back to your hotel that happens to be nearby like we did in Hakata, trust me, you'd be at your hotel by foot, else if you're driving, you'd probably still stuck in the parking lot with frustrations of navigating between traffic congestions on the way back. There are so much to shop and eat in Hakata, take it slow and enjoy the atmosphere by walking or stopping by a cafe is a pretty nice thing to do too!


Car Rental: Was it Worth the Money?


Kamishikimikumanoimasu Shrine Hike
The Kamishikimikumanoimasu Shrine Hike
I've said good things and bad things about car rental, and for my trip to Kyushu, renting our car was worth it! Without our car it'd be super difficult for us to visit Takachiho, and we'd not be able to visit Kamishikimikumanoimasu Shrine easily to the point that this spiritual power spot could easily be crossed off our list if we weren't driving!

But if it's a question asked by city-only travelers, I typically discourage it except for cases where special needs or special care will be required for convenience and ease of mind, since the parking fees can be really high sometimes taking the metro is really a whole lot more cost effective. (Or perhaps consider renting a driver from licensed travel agencies, or Uber rides!)

So basically, if you're traveling across prefectures that can be more convenient to travel by car, especially when public transportation isn't as complete and convenient as cities like Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto City, Sapporo, Sendai, or even Hiroshima City and Fukuoka, by all means I will recommend driving so you get to see more of the places you visit. But of course, it all depends on your personal preference and final itinerary! Everyone travels with a different budget and pace, so your preferences will be your highest priority and I can only advise so much. :)

FAQs for Malaysian and Singaporean Drivers

Before we go, here are some questions I get from friends and clients that I thought I'd share, and I hope this blog post will be helpful for your next driving trip to Japan. Feel free to also ask me questions in the comments section at the bottom of the post and I'll answer them whenever I can!

Q: Malaysia drives left too - is it easier?

A: Yes! My friend adapted pretty quickly! But perhaps it's also different because the car model isn't what we drive at home, and there were plenty of mountain roads, especially from Beppu to Takachiho, and from Takachiho to Aso. That was tough for all of us.

Q: Must all drivers have IDP and register during rental car collection in Japan?

A: Yes, everyone who is going to drive the rented car MUST have IDP. Your arrival information (the QR code on your passport) is required upon collecting your car. This is for insurance registration and for you and your group's safety, and to prevent potential unwanted disputes.

Q: Can I use my credit card in ETC machines?

A: Absolutely not. ETC cards are issued by credit card companies, and they are only issued to residents of Japan. Do not insert your credit card into the ETC device.

*Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps keep the blog running - thank you! 🙏

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Plans change. Sometimes you wished to defy fate, especially when you want to have things go your way for a journey you planned so meticulously. Despite the number of times I refreshed the website for Mt. Aso's crater activity in hopes to see the alert go away so perhaps we can still have a glimpse before sunset, it didn't happen.

But will that actually stop me? When I've been dreaming of seeing volcanic craters with my own eyes? Of course not! So guess who's stopping by at Aso Station because there might be a chance we'd still be able to check if local buses can operate to take us there, right?

Yeap, that was me with my wishful thinking.


Usopp Statue Kumamoto
Proof we pivoted from volcanoes to anime pilgrimages!

That, ladies and gentlemen, was how I ended up taking pictures of the bronze Usopp statue from One Piece while side-eyeing bus schedules in Aso Station, and such was our afternoon after leaving Joyfull Aso before heading to our stop at Kumamoto, but of course Kumamoto still delivered joy (and crispy pork) we never saw coming!

Aso Scenery
Image taken along the way from Aso to Kumamoto


So in this blog post, I'll be taking you to a little journey of how we end up utilizing our backup plan, even though I really didn't wish to use this plan at all. So if you do ever need to find something to do as an alternative plan when Mt. Aso isn't in the mood to see humans, perhaps this post can help you!


Detour: Usopp Statue & The Bus That Wasn’t Operating

There are actually ten different statues of the current locations all across Kumamoto Prefecture, consisting ten different characters where I'll be sharing a map below! Popular characters such as Luffy, Sanji, Usopp, Chopper, Zoro, Nami, Robin and more are listed. While none of us actually managed to finish watching the entire series of One Piece, we decided to still take a photo of Usopp while we're here at Aso Station!



By the time we arrived at Aso Station, the day was still bright and breezy, and it's difficult to imagine there were actually some volcanic activity happening not too far away from us, so my hopes were brought up once again as I gleefully ran my way from the parking lot to the bus station to search for their latest operation updates!


Aso station Kumamoto
Aso Station from the parking lot

However, with Mt. Aso still belching uninvited gas, what we ended up doing at Aso Station were:
✔️ Confirming that buses to Mt. Aso were still canceled (sigh +999)
✔️ Take pictures of Usopp’s statue (since we're here, might as well, right?)
✔️ Secretly hope the Straw Hat crew would manifest a crater visit for us (didn't happen in time, it is what it is)

So, the final result?

Gas emissions: 1, Jin’s volcano dreams: 0.

Oh well, at least Usopp’s standing tall for us to photograph him, and Mt. Aso isn't going anywhere. So in defeat, I've accepted our reality and drove back to Kumamoto.

Sotetsu Grand Fresa Kumamoto
The 5pm check-in rush—worth it for that bathtub later.

Sotetsu Grand Fresa Kumamoto: Check-In Chaos & Bathtub Bliss

By evening, we parked our car in a nearby building (with a discounted rate!), brought what's necessary (without leaving valuables in our car), and dragged our suitcases to Sotetsu Grand Fresa Kumamoto, where:
  • The self-check-in machines were packed (pro tip: arrive pre-3pm to avoid queues, or just check in much later)
  • The room had a bathtub comfortable enough to drown my Aso disappointment (with some help from bath salts)
  • The location was perfect—Shinshigai arcade is just steps away!

We booked a triple room so we got a bed each! The room is nowhere as spacious as the room we stayed in Kokura, but it was enough for a one-night stay. Plus their coin laundromat was available (as per my friends' request) so it was still a pretty big W for us, despite them needing to queue for quite a while to get laundry done. And since we noticed the queue, we decided to just head out and do laundry later, so off to Shinshigai Arcade we go!

Shinshigai Arcade: Shopping & Michelin-Starred Pork

With our hotel being super close to the shopping arcade, it's clearly the first stop for us right after check-in! Consisting of various shops from drugstores to souvenirs, fashion to karaoke outlets, there are plenty to do here!

As a self-proclaimed shopaholic, we hit Kumamoto’s famous arcade for three priorities:

1. Retail Therapy

Kumamoto Shopping Arcade
Strolling as we go~

With the super filling meal we had from Joyfull Aso, our tummies were still pretty much filled even after checking in! So we shopped for a while along the streets, from looking at quirky souvenirs to checking out drugstore items to compare prices and of course, checking out more Kumamon merch (because obviously that's a NEED if you're traveling to Kumamoto), we window-shopped until we got really hungry, and that's when we began walking to indulge in our next Michelin-starred stop!


2. Katsuretsu Tei’s Tonkatsu (★)

Michelin-starred tonkatsu at Katsuretsu Tei in Kumamoto
Not all Michelin-starred meals have to break the bank, trust me

At this Michelin-starred spot, we devoured:
  • 💎 Premium loin katsu (so tender it made me forget about volcanoes for a moment)
  • 🍚 Bottomless rice & cabbage (because carbs heal wounds)
  • ✨ Secret sauce (with some grinding involved)

While I personally have a stronger preference for my tonkatsu at Gohantotororo Toromugi, I absolutely love the idea of grinding your own sesame to blend with their tonkatsu sauce! It might feel a little tiring at first, but doing this together with friends can be fun, and the meal tastes unique and gives you a sense of accomplishment so I'd say it's still a great experience!


Michelin-starred tonkatsu at Katsuretsu Tei in Kumamoto
Crispy, juicy, and worth every calorie.

Since we're able to order rice and cabbage refills, I managed to finish another three bowls of rice, and rest assured my tummy was filled and happy! Oh did I mention we actually had to queue for a seat because there were so many of us queueing in their main branch? It's popular with the locals and travelers too, and I definitely understand why after a meal here.

3. Art Museum

Contemporary Art Museum Kumamoto
Contemporary Art Museum Kumamoto

After our meal, we decided to drop by Contemporary Art Museum Kumamoto as we strolled along the downtown. There are different sections that we can visit for free, and there's also an exhibition that is time-limited that will require an entrance fee. We actually also managed to see works by Yayoi Kusama, and we're really happy too! 


Contemporary Art Museum Kumamoto
Contemplating life in a Contemporary Art Museum (featuring Friend B)

There are also many art pieces made of sand that are beautifully arranged, and 'mesmerizing' was the least creative word I could think of when it comes to describing them. It almost feels like we could really spend hours and hours here!


Contemporary Art Museum Kumamoto Drawing
I also colored this while waiting for Friend A to browse the rest of the paid exhibition!


Not to mention, they also have various merchandise, art prints, frames, and so much more that you can also purchase! I also managed to find prints from an artist I happened to know from a collaboration with my favorite voice actor's narrations, so I was really happy (and did spend quite a while to pick which print to get).


Contemporary Art Museum Kumamoto
As someone who likes clear, shiny things, they caught my eye (especially the emerald-colored one)


After a lot of standing and walking, we decided to stroll back along the shopping arcade instead of going for a karaoke session so I can get my daily soak like a fish out of water, while my friends can get their laundries done!

Laundry vs. Baths: The Evening Divide

After returning to our hotel, our group split:
  • 👚 Friends A & B: Laundromat warriors (bless them, the queue was still long but they gotta do what they gotta do)
  • 🛁 Me: Soaking in the tub like a happy goldfish for the entire hour

Sotetsu Grand Fresa Kumamoto
Our room comes with TV with multiple channels (though all in Japanese)


I headed straight to the tub as soon as I tossed my coat onto my bed, heard my friends heading out, and thankfully brought my phone, along with my onsen bath salt to enjoy my me-time in the bathtub while listening to my favorite music, clearing my game dailies, and updating my family on my travels. By the time my friends were back almost an hour later, I was just about to get out from the tub to catch some sleep!

Though we did end up chatting more while watching TV while they took their turns to shower and sort out their suitcases, and that's how we ended our day!


What's Next: Morning Buffet Redemption

On the following morning it's going to be a day where we explore a little more in Kumamoto before leaving the city with its super lovable mascot! But of course, our room did come with breakfast, so we'll talk about that next time!


Tips and Key Takeaways

From our experience of missing out the crater and having to change our plans, there are definitely a few things I'd like to share!
  • 🔥 Mt. Aso closures? You'd also want to check bus schedules here first (especially if you're visiting Mt. Aso by public transportation) and always have a backup plan.
  • 🍖 Katsuretsu Tei: Worth the Michelin hype (go before 7pm!)
  • 🛌 Sotetsu Grand Fresa: Book a room that comes with a bathtub along with a breakfast plan, you'll appreciate it if you're walking a little too much!

If you're also looking for accommodation or tickets and would love to support my blog, kindly consider booking via my referral links! It doesn't cost you more, but it'll help supporting my blog when you make a booking!
👉 Book here via my Agoda referral link (click here)
Or if you're still looking for flight tickets, consider booking here at Trip.com (click here)!


"Save this itinerary for your Kumamoto backup plan! Pin it below or bookmark for later. Also, ever had a Plan B day that outshined Plan A? Share your stories below! ↓
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About Me

Jin, Type A ENFP, Virgo-Libra Cusp
Slytherin
Multilingual and travels to Japan for various purposes.
Avid mobile game player.

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ジン・A型・ENFP・乙女と天秤座のハーフ
スリザリン・レイブンクロー
4つ言語話せます。様々な原因で日本に行く。
モバゲーもよくしています。

チャネル・ページ登録よろしくお願いします!


対応可能言語/ Languages:
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・中国語(Mandarin)
・マレー語(Malay)
・日本語(Japanese)

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