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Eastern Hokkaido Through My Eyes: A Photo Journey | Jin Travels Japan

Eastern Hokkaido Through My Eyes: A Photo Journey

Lake Mashu, Rare sight without mist A personal photo journey through Eastern Hokkaido – from Obihiro's yatai to Lake Akan's Kamuy Lumina, and reflections on change, gratitude, and the people who made it unforgettable.

Just last week, while mindlessly scrolling on Facebook over the Raya holidays, I came across a post from someone I met on a business trip to Hokkaido back in 2019. Mr. Hiyakawa was retiring, and his post stirred something in me – a flood of memories from that autumn road trip through Eastern Hokkaido. I reached out, and his kind reply reminded me why I fell in love with this region: the people, the landscapes, the quiet moments that stayed with me long after I returned home.

I’ve been thinking about Heraclitus lately: "No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it’s not the same river and he’s not the same man." Looking at these old photos, I realize how much has changed – and yet, the longing to return, to share these stories, hasn’t faded. So here they are: a visual diary of a trip that shaped me, and the people who made it unforgettable.

✈️ The Road Begins at Haneda

It was past 10 PM when I landed at Haneda, heart racing – would I make the shuttle to the hotel? In the immigration queue, I overheard someone mention a flight time. I took a breath, walked over, and asked if they were on the same FAM trip. They were. We swapped numbers in seconds, and just like that, I had travel companions for the days ahead.

The next morning, we boarded a small AirDo flight to Obihiro. The plane had a cute bear mascot, and the view below was a patchwork of autumn colours and green. The air when we stepped out was crisp – 16°C, my favourite. I took off my coat and felt the cool breeze welcome me to Hokkaido.

🌾 Obihiro: Fields, Farms & Yatai

Tokachi Winery
Tokachi Winery – where we learned about local wines and agriculture.

Our guide, Yoko-san, met us with a smile that never left her face all week. She was bubbly, knowledgeable, and spoke English so well. She showed us around Obihiro’s farms, introduced us to Itadakimasu Company’s farm tour (where we harvested Japanese yam with our own hands), and took us to Tokachi Winery. But the highlight was the evening at Kitanoyatai, a small alley of food stalls.

Naitai Terrace soft serve
Soft serve at Naitai Terrace – creamy and simple, just right after a long day.

We squeezed into Petit Plaisir, a tiny place where the owner watched us with amusement. I whispered to a friend that melted cheese would be perfect on my corn. He must have heard – a moment later, he shaved cheese from a giant wheel right onto my bowl. It was glorious. The beer poured perfectly, with a soft foam and no bitterness. I’ve never found that taste again, but maybe that’s the point: some things belong only to that moment.

Obihiro Yatai
Obihiro's yatai – small, cozy, and full of flavour.

🏞️ Lake Akan: Where Nature Speaks

Lake Akan Hotel View
The view from my room at Lake Akan – I slept by the window to wake up to this.

Lake Akan was the heart of the trip. I had a room with a full window overlooking the lake. Instead of the large bed, I pulled the futon to the window, lay under the stars, and woke to the soft sunrise painting the autumn foliage gold. I stayed a little longer, then rushed to the onsen before breakfast – one of those rare moments when my mind went completely quiet.

New Akan Hotel onsen
The indoor onsen at New Akan Hotel – soothing after long days of exploring.

We learned about the Ainu people, their belief in kamuy – spirits that dwell in all things. Their story of the Hokkaido wolf, driven to extinction by human greed, hit hard. That evening, we walked Kamuy Lumina, an interactive night path through the forest. Armed with glowing “rhythm staffs”, we became messengers on a quest to restore balance to nature. The full moon rose at the perfect moment, and I found myself holding back tears – not from sadness, but from the weight of the message and the beauty of the experience. I will write a separate post about this. It deserves its own space.

New Akan Hotel meal
A feast at New Akan Hotel – each dish a work of art.

🦌 Shiretoko: Where the Wild Roams Free

Lake Mashu
Lake Mashu – a rare day where it's not shrouded in mist, like a hidden world laid bare before my eyes while I was told that those who are single saw this rare sight will take quite a while to be in a relationship. It's true, I'm still single while writing this.

From Lake Akan, we drove east through Lake Mashu, its waters so clear they seemed unreal. We reached Shiretoko, a UNESCO World Heritage site where bears and deer roam freely. The landscape was raw, untamed. We stayed at a hotel where the onsen faced the sea, and I sat in the outdoor bath, watching the waves and wondering if the deer we saw earlier were watching too.

Shiretoko Peninsula
The rugged coastline of Shiretoko – wild and beautiful.

❄️ Abashiri: History, Ice, and a Taste of the Sea

Cape Notoro
Cape Notoro – a dandelion against the tower, quiet and serene.

We continued to Abashiri, visiting the famous prison museum (a Golden Kamuy fan’s dream) and learning about drift ice at the Okhotsk Sea Ice Museum. At Cape Notoro, a single dandelion stood against the observation tower – a small, defiant beauty. And then, the moment that surprised me most: our first taste of whale meat. I didn’t understand the smell, the texture. But the guide explained: respect for life, gratitude for the sea. I took a bite, and tried to honour that.

🛫 The Long Way Back

Our last day, we flew from Mombetsu back to Haneda. But my trip wasn’t over. I had a long transit, so I took the express train to Shinjuku, bought my favourite books and cosmetics (tax‑free, of course), and raced back to the airport with exactly one yen left on my PASMO after exiting the ticket gate. I made it. And on the flight home, I already knew I’d be back – not just to Hokkaido, but to Japan, over and over again.

🌊 The River, the Same Yet Different

Heraclitus said you can’t step into the same river twice. Looking back at this trip, I see how much has changed: I’ve grown from a travel consultant into someone who interprets at fairs, writes about Japan, and shares stories like these. I’ve lost people, gained new friends, and learned to appreciate the luxury of slowing down.

But the river hasn’t changed so much that I don’t recognize it. The kindness of Yoko-san, the warmth of the yatai owner, the quiet awe at Lake Akan – those feelings are still with me. And the people I met on that trip? We still have a WhatsApp group. We don’t talk often, but when we do, we’re still those girls soaking in the onsen, sharing snacks, dreaming of where we’d go next.

One day, I’ll return. Maybe to Petit Plaisir, with new friends, to taste that beer again. Maybe to Lake Akan, to walk Kamuy Lumina under a full moon. The river will be different, and so will I. But I’ll carry these memories with me – and maybe, share them with you, too.

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© 2026 Jin Travels Japan – Photos from my 2019 trip to Eastern Hokkaido. Thank you to everyone who made it unforgettable.

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Why I Don't Revisit Places in Japan—And Why That's Okay | Jin's Musings
Jin's Musings
Why I Don't Revisit (You're here!) · You Can't Step in the Same River Twice, polishing in progress · More travel essays, coming someday
Jin's Musings
Jin Travels Japan · All Essays
Essay · Philosophy & Travel · October 6, 2025

Why I Don't Revisit Places in Japan—And Why That's Okay

Some places etch themselves onto the soul with such fierce, singular clarity that returning feels less like a homecoming and more like a sacrilege—an attempt to rewrite a line in a sacred text.

✦ ✦ ✦

The scent of damp moss clinging to ancient stone, the shinkansen's muffled roar dissolving into countryside silence, the first sip of matcha—bitter then sweet, unfolding on the tongue like a secret. These moments arrive not as invitations for repetition, but as sealed envelopes. Perfect. Complete. Their magic lies not in familiarity, but in the untarnished wholeness of that first encounter. To remember them just once becomes the purest form of reverence: an acceptance of the transient, a bow to the irrevocable.

Serene Japanese garden path
Kunen-an Garden in Saga — a moment preserved in memory, like how I wish to preserve the magic of first encounters in the Land of the Rising Sun.

The Allure of the Unscripted: When the World Speaks Without Translation

That first meeting. Stepping off the train, suitcase wheels rattling on unfamiliar concrete, lungs filling with air that tastes of salt, or cedar, or something unnameable—this is where philosophy lives, not in dusty tomes, but in the raw synapse between self and world. Alleyways aren't just paths; they yawn like unanswered questions. You walk with your chest cracked open, a pilgrim of perception. There are no ghosts of past visits, no echoes of your own previous footsteps to cloud the dialogue. Everything vibrates with the electric hum of pure potential, the terrifying and tender ache of the truly new. This first encounter? It's the world speaking to you directly, unfiltered by the static of expectation, unscripted by memory's rehearsal. It's phenomenology in motion: consciousness meeting place in its naked immediacy. Why press replay on a symphony when its original, resonant note still hums in the marrow of your being, pure and undiminished?

Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine cave view
The hidden cave at Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine — a discovery meant to be experienced once

Japan: An Infinity of Unwritten Pages, a Testament to Becoming

This country breathes not just history, but perpetual possibility. It exists as a landscape whispering of endless becoming. Thousands of towns nestle in mountain folds like hidden thoughts. Islands scatter across the sea like dropped pearls, each holding an unwritten story. Every bamboo grove rustles with potential beauty, every weathered torii gate frames a threshold to the unknown. To travel here isn't merely sightseeing; it feels like peeling back the crisp page of an infinite, illuminated manuscript, the ink perpetually wet on tales unseen. The philosopher craves the horizon, not the well-worn path. Why retrace steps on a map already internalized, creating grooves in the familiar, when uncharted territory—real, imagined, felt—sighs just beyond? There's a vital ache in the not-knowing, a delicious hunger that fuels the spirit. I move not to collect duplicates, souvenirs of past awe, but to chase the gasp of the first—to sit beneath a sky mapped by alien constellations, to hear my own footsteps as the first foreign echo down a lane steeped in centuries of quiet. It's an act of faith in the world's inexhaustible novelty.

"I don't revisit because I'm running away; I don't revisit because I'm moving forward—eyes wide, heart full, with reverence."

The Sacred Fragility of Memory: Resisting Time's Erasure

What if I returned? This is the quiet dread, the philosophical quandary wrapped in personal fear. What if the sakura, that blizzard of transcendent pink that once stopped time, bloomed sparse against a grey sky? What if the kissaten, its counter polished smooth by generations of confidences, vanished, replaced by the cold gleam of the generic? What if the sunrise over Miyajima's torii, the one that carved light directly onto the soul, now registered merely as… pleasant? The horror isn't merely change—the Heraclitean river forever flowing. It's the insidious act of comparison. The slow, inevitable erosion of a pristine, lived experience by the sandpaper of a potentially lesser reality. It's Proustian despair: the realization that the madeleine's magic might not survive the second bite. To revisit is to risk letting the photograph replace the feeling, the memory overwritten by its own shadow. I choose not to repaint. I need that memory preserved in its own amber: vibrant, raw, whole—a sanctuary untouched by time's clumsy fingers or the inevitable fading of my own capacity for wonder. Some moments, by their very nature, demand the dignity of standing eternally still.

Kokura Garden's pond
Kokura Garden's pond — a reflection preserved in memory's stillness

It's Not Distance. It's the Deepest Proximity.

"But didn't you love it?"

The question hangs, soft as dust motes in afternoon light.

Didn't I love it?

I did. I do. With a fierceness that can catch like a sob in the throat. Precisely because of that love… I leave it alone. I don't revisit not out of neglect, but from a profound, almost protective intimacy. It is the love that knows repetition might diminish the singular power of that initial collision—like trying to recapture the universe-altering weight of a first, perfect kiss, knowing each subsequent attempt could only dilute its essence. It's akin to folding a fragile love letter just once, tucking it away in a sacred drawer of the heart. Unfolding it too often risks tearing the paper, blurring the ink of that first, flawless confession written by place upon the soul. It is love expressed as letting be.

Private onsen at Kamigakure
A private indulgence in hard-earned luxury

The Courage in Wholeness: Rejecting the Cult of More

And that's okay. More than okay. There's a quiet, unheralded strength in walking away while the heart is still impossibly, achingly full. There's a profound peace—a philosophical resolution—in whispering: That moment was sufficient. It was whole. Complete. It needs no sequel, no encore, no validation through repetition. Its perfection resides in its singularity, its unrepeatable alchemy of time, place, and perception. It simply… was. And in that "was," it builds its own enduring monument, untouched by the relentless tide of "again."

Rainbow after visiting Kunen-an
A rainbow farewell — nature's perfect ending to a singular experience

To the places I've met once, and only once—
I didn't forget you.
I chose to remember you like that. Always.
Perfect. Untouched. Sacred.
Mine, precisely because I let you go.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps keep the blog running—thank you! 🙏

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About Me

Jin
Jin
Freelance Interpreter & Translator
Type A  ·  ENFP  ·  Virgo–Libra Cusp
Interpreting Experience
・Hoshino Resorts Tomamu
Travel Events
・Gifu Prefecture Tourism
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Former travel consultant, Japanese agency (3+ years)
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岐阜県通訳・旅行コンサルタント経験有。
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日本文化とモバゲーが大好きです!
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