Hello everyone, I'm back to write about my second day in Japan! In my previous post My friends and I have traveled from Hakata and had a relaxing day in Mojiko and Kokura! And to further enjoy our relaxing trip, Beppu is THE place we'll be heading to! Being the onsen town, we figured it's the best to have a scenic journey and end our day with a private hot spring!
Content Overview
- Departure from Kokura
- Beppu Hot Spring Town, we're here!
- Beppu Ropeway
- Reimen Lunch at Ikkyu no Namida
- Umi no Jigoku
- Enjoying Private Hot Spring at Shin-An Ryokan!
- Other recommendation
Departure from Kokura
It's only our second day on our first road trip in Japan, but we already enjoyed our journey! There’s just this unique, freeing sensation when it comes to hitting the open road throughout our journey, and the drive from Kokura to Beppu was no exception. As we left the urban buzz of Kokura behind, the winding roads of Kyushu unfolded before us, revealing rolling hills, quaint villages, and glimpses of the sparkling Seto Inland Sea from time to time.
Every turn offered us a new perspective on the region’s natural beauty. We had an enjoyable time as we enjoyed the rhythm of the road, the changing landscapes, and the stop at a roadside rest area (michi-no-eki) added a sense of adventure that only a road trip can provide. As our accommodation in Kokura did not come with breakfast, the michi-no-eki is just the perfect spot for us to fill our empty tummies!
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| Roadside station Buzen-Okoshikake / 道の駅 豊前おこしかけ |
Michi-no-Eki Buzen-Okoshikake is one of the roadside rest areas we can pass by via our route from Kokura to Beppu. It's small and charming, located in Buzen City of Fukuoka that wasn't far from Kokura. It offers a mix of local charms, delicious food, and a relaxing atmosphere.
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| On our way~ |
While we did arrive a little too early for all of the stalls to open, we did manage to purchase some local products while having our little breakfast here! There were many local produce ranging from vegetables, fruits, and handmade crafts, and of course, traditional food and snacks as well. I was hoping to try Buzen udon (a type of thick udon noodle) too but we arrived too early for that.
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| Just looking at how long my shadow looked could probably let you tell how early we were here lol |
A highlight is that if you're driving an EV, you are able to charge it here! Though the rates seemed high. Our vehicle runs on petrol so we only used this roadside station as a place for a meal, since the item prices were reasonable with a decent portion! If I were to cook myself I would've bought some vegetables, because their seasonal vegetables are considerably cheap here!
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| Warabi mochi and Mitarashi dango for breakfast |
As we're still early, we figured it was the perfect place to stretch our legs, soak in the peaceful countryside views, and indulge in some local treats. For breakfast, we enjoyed warabi mochi—a delicate, jelly-like dessert coated in nutty kinako (roasted soybean flour)—and mitarashi dango, skewered rice dumplings glazed with a sweet-savory soy sauce. The combination of textures and flavors was a delightful way to start the day! What's better than to start a road trip with sweetness, right? Plus, the rest area’s cozy atmosphere and friendly vibe made it a memorable pit stop, and we left feeling refreshed and ready for the next leg of our journey.
Scenic Beppu Hot Spring Town, we're here!
There are many hot spring towns all across Kyushu. Beppu, with its steamy hot springs and vibrant energy, was our destination—but the decision to get there by car was deliberate. We wanted to take our time, to savor the journey as much as the destination. And while Yufuin, another iconic onsen town, was temptingly close, we made a conscious choice to save it for a future trip.
Why? Because Yufuin deserves its own moment in the spotlight, and we’ve been dreaming of boarding the popular and beautiful Yufuin-no-Mori train, with its elegant wooden interiors and panoramic views! Some experiences are worth the wait, and we wanted to give Yufuin the attention it deserves, rather than squeezing it into this already-packed adventure.
As we approached Beppu, the landscape began to change. Plumes of steam rose from the ground, hinting at the geothermal wonders that awaited us. Beppu is a place where nature’s power is on full display, from its bubbling hot springs to its iconic "hells" (jigoku). It’s a town that feels alive, constantly reminding you of the earth’s energy beneath your feet. And while it shares some similarities with Yufuin—both are renowned hot spring destinations—Beppu has its own distinct personality. It’s bold, bustling, and unapologetically unique. And what's better than enjoying the scenic Beppu from Beppu Ropeway? So that's where we are starting our trip!
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| I did NOT prepare myself for this... |
Beppu Ropeway
As soon as I saw the official website update on the temperature, I looked at my knee-length dress, and quickly grabbed packets of kairo patches to keep my legs warm. But as soon as I saw the gondola traveling, I couldn't help but to be excited for the ride, knowing it'll be one of the highlights of our day in Beppu!
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| Ropeway Station View from Parking Lot |
After a rather long queue to purchase our ticket as well as to board the gondola, it's finally time for us to enjoy the scenic cable car ride! Seeing how the ride whisked up to the heights of Mount Tsurumi, how the town of Beppu gradually shrank below us, and how the sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and sea in the distance replacing the view made me happy like a little girl. Many sounds of awe from tourists aside, the ride itself was serene, and I was filled with excitement to see what I'll be finding as soon as we reached Mount Tsurumi.
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| View from the gondola |
Reaching the top station, we were greeted by a crisp breeze and a sense of anticipation. We looked around the scenery, and found a giant thermometer standing high, telling us it's now 3 degree Celsius! With a little more walking around the hiking trails beckoned and Friend A eagerly set off to explore, while I struggled a little with the stamina, the little pauses I made throughout my hikes were not wasted at all.
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| Looking back, I still couldn't believe I hiked this place in a knee-length skirt |
The paths wound through autumn greenery coated with a thin layer of snow, and the occasional breaks allowed me to take in breathtaking panoramas of Beppu Bay and the steaming hot spring town below. The hike was invigorating, as we watched snowflakes fluttering from above, but it was not overly cold, making it naturally a perfect blend of physical activity and natural beauty with our kairo patches keeping us warm. Along the way, we encountered small shrines and quiet spots to pause, make our wishes for a better future for all of us.
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| Not even kidding when I said there's snow |
As we made our way back to the ropeway station, it's almost noon, and we knew it's about time for us to grab lunch! So while we waited for our ride to descend Mount Tsurumi, we got an ice cream from the vending machine.
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| Nothing beats a nice chocolate ice cream in a cold weather |
As the gondola leads us downwards, the surrounding scenery unfolds before us once again. Like a giant-sized moss rug, with patchworks of lakes and clouds slowly moving along the skies, right above the township. The gondola is filled with a quiet serenity now, and I'm glad I got a great view from the front seat!
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| Hello little lake! |
And with that, we hit the road for another 20 minutes to our lunch spot, with memories of the scenic ride forever imprinted in our minds.
Reimen Lunch at Ikkyu no Namida
With only sweets for breakfast, anyone would've been starving by lunch time. And while I've enjoyed reimen in Morioka, I've been craving for them again. So as soon as I found out there is a popular reimen restaurant in Beppu, I immediately added Ikkyu no Namida to my list! It was only later of my trip that I found out it is listed as a Michelin restaurant as well!
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| Ikkyu no Namida |
For those who are able to read kanji, you might've already began to wonder, "Jin, are you crazy? Cold noodles in a cold weather? I can't do that!" — because reimen is literally and directly translated to 'cold noodles'! But here in Ikkyu no Namida, they also serve warm noodles!
We first look at the menu outside of the shop and placed our orders before entering. If you prefer larger portions of noodles, you can also order it too! Just perfect for me when my giant appetite is now awakened. By the time we're at the shop, it's already full with a short queue — and here I thought I was early!
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| Interior of the shop |
Personally speaking, I prefer something refreshing after a hike. The little shop itself is warm and cozy itself, and the chilled, chewy noodles served in a tangy and slightly sweet broth makes it lovable. Their reimen comes with kimchi, and I personally loved eating kimchi as it is! I finished half of my noodles without mixing the kimchi into the soup first, and tried mixing everything together and ended with a completely empty bowl, haha!
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| The accidental Michelin meal that we didn't even know we had back then |
The noodle's texture is wonderful! While it may not be as springy as the ones I liked in Morioka, the thicker noodles made it chewy, almost just like how I liked my Hokkien Mee in Ulu Yam. The broth is made of Japanese makurazaki bonito, iausu kelp, and beef bones. The store also mentioned that there were no additives added in the process of cooking. Those who are fans of Morioka reimen would agree that Morioka reimen is on its own unbeatable tier, but the reimen here is honestly not bad either. I also tried my friends' chicken tempura, and they are amazing as well. The chicken was fluffy and unlike any ordinary fried chicken.
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| Mine, all mine! |
If you wanted a change of flavor, you can also add kabosu pepper, which is also a specialty in Oita. There's also a unique depth of flavor with kabosu itself, especially with how fragrant it is! The chaashu (or char-siu, however you'd like to call it) wasn't fatty, so it is good for those who have the preference, and probably also explains why it is popular with female customers!
After a hearty meal, we paid in cash, made sure we had a washroom break, and headed straight to Umi no Jigoku!
Umi no Jigoku
Like how its name sounds, Umi no Jigoku, or also literally translates to "Sea Hell," is one of the most iconic and mesmerizing hot springs (jigoku) in Beppu, Japan. It's popular for its steaming pool of vibrant cobalt-blue water, and it feels almost like something that comes out from my childhood doodles!
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| Cobalt-blue water |
The surrounding area is lush and green, with carefully maintained gardens that add a serene contrast to the bubbling, boiling waters. There’s a small shrine nearby, where we did make a little prayer there for a smooth journey for the next couple of days.
The reason why we chose Umi-no-jigoku over the others is because we can see most of the other springs here as well! Umi no Jigoku isn’t just a visual wonder— we saw geysers, the blue water, another iron-red spring that is so striking along with the smell of sulphur. It’s also a reminder of how much we still don't know about earth, how powerful nature can be, that the trip here making it both awe-inspiring and humbling.
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| A relaxing trip comes with a relaxing drink — time for beer! |
What’s really fun is that they even use the heat from the spring to boil eggs and steam-cook vegetables, so you can enjoy a little snack while taking in the view. So that's also what we did! Getting a bag of eggs, while I, the passenger princess, enjoyed blue beer, matching the cobalt-blue waters! It's just food coloring as far as I know, it tastes just like any ordinary beer, crisp and refreshing.
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| Cheers! |
The color from the beer alone makes it feel like you’re holding a little piece of the "Sea Hell" itself in your hands, and it’s such a playful way to connect with the place. Pairing it with the hot spring eggs is just chef’s kiss — those creamy, slightly sulfur-y eggs are a classic Beppu treat, and they've gotta be the perfect savory complement to the crisp, refreshing beer!
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| Iron-red spring |
After getting my cheeks flushed from the beer, as well as getting a whole bottle of kabosu honey and a couple bottles of rice wine as souvenir for myself, we've decided to take a walk around to find the iron-filled spring, as well as the lotus garden. It isn't the season for lotus, for sure, but it's still nice to see lily pads so huge I wondered how joyful it'd be if I were a frog hopping from one to another!
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| Oh, to be a frog... |
And just before we were about to head back, we noticed it's about to drizzle, but I insisted to at least try a foot bath. After yanking my leather shoes and socks away, and of course, cleaning my feet before entering the waters, the warm, soothing experience washes over, and it's so comforting to the point I forgot about time! Especially with the misty, almost magical atmosphere of the place surrounding you. It’s like a little gift to yourself before heading back to reality.
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| Umi no Jigoku foot bath |
There was a miscalculation, though. None of us remembered to bring a towel to dry our feet! We ended up using tissue papers, haha! Then again, it’s always those little things we forget! Still, it added a bit of humor to the memory, and it's memorable till now! Though you bet I'd now bring a small towel with me if I'm traveling here again! That being said, it's now time for us to check in to our accommodation!
Enjoying Private Hot Spring at Shin-an Ryokan!
When I was planning and booking for my trip to Beppu, I really, really wanted to stay in KAI Beppu, which is run by Hoshino Resort. It offers great service, impeccable design, multi-course kaiseki meals, as well as great views of the ocean. Being someone who knows how satisfying staying with anywhere ran by Hoshino Resorts can be, I know KAI is THE place if I wanted to treat myself with something luxurious. However, considering our arrival time, we figured that we wouldn't be able to make the most out of our stay, so we decided to search for alternate options, and that's how I ended up finding Shin-an!
Guesthouse Shosei No Yado Shin-an in Beppu is a charming and highly regarded accommodation, which also happens to have a Michelin star. It is budget friendly, especially for travelers looking for a cozy, authentic experience that also wants to look for a private hot spring. Nestled in the heart of Beppu, Shin-an is known for its warm, welcoming atmosphere and its close proximity to many of the city’s famous hot springs (onsen) and attractions.
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| Entrance of our house |
Shin-an offers a variety of rooms, and for our trip, we booked their room 'Bun', which is a maisonette-type room with a modern Japanese touch. I booked via their official site since I am a Japanese speaker and their site is Japanese only, but they are also on Agoda here. They also had western style room, suite rooms, bedrock bath rooms, and other options!
The guesthouse has a traditional Japanese vibe, with tatami mat rooms, futon bedding, and shared spaces that encourage a sense of community among guests. Though what we did was to leave our baggage at our room, then we began exploring around as it is located at the city center!
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| Being excited was just an understatement. You have no idea how much I LOVE futons! |
When looking at the website, we already knew our accommodation comes with two stories, but we still couldn't help but to be overjoyed as soon as we saw our bedroom upstairs. Just look a the traditional Japanese-style decor, tatami mats, and cozy futon bedding, isn't it the perfect space to unwind after a day of exploring Beppu’s hot springs and sights?
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| Futons |
Even though Shin-an is located right at the center of Beppu and is fairly close to the train station, the room has such a serene, minimalist vibe, and the sliding paper doors (shoji) add an extra touch of authenticity. It’s the kind of space that makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a peaceful retreat, away from the hustle and bustle.
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| Downstairs - yes we had a lot of stuff and it's kinda messy (but we cleaned up before checking out!) |
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| This is our bedroom with my futon being set! I set the pink one myself, hehe! |
Meanwhile, I spent some time downstairs to enjoy the warm, welcoming environment with some music played through their speakers. It might not be the luxury of KAI Beppu, but it has its own unique charm and character that makes it special. The plus point of Shin-an is so close to restaurants, that there was actually no need for them to serve meals. They have also provided us a guidebook and recommendations of nearby restaurants, so we picked some restaurants to visit and had a nice dinner! Thanks to their service, we saved a lot of money and had more in our budget to have another night in another ryokan in Takachiho!
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| Indoor hot spring |
Coming back from dinner, we took turns to immerse ourselves in the hot spring. We started with the indoor bath after our shower. The hot spring is cozy enough for the three of us! It’s a traditional Japanese-style bath, made of stone, with warm, soothing hot spring water filling the air with a gentle steam. The atmosphere is serene, with soft lighting and minimalist decor that encourages relaxation. The water comes from a tap that links to natural hot spring water sources. It’s the perfect spot to soak away any fatigue of the full day of walking and strolling, so we relaxed, and let the mineral-rich waters work their magic. The indoor bath is especially great for those cooler evenings or if you prefer a bit more privacy, which was what Friend A and B both preferred, and the reason why we decided to book with Shin-an.
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| Rotenburo |
On the other hand, I personally do not care much when it comes to hot springs, be it public or private. But I enjoy open-air baths (rotenburo) more than indoor baths! Not to mention, I can adjust the temperature between 40°C and 60°C. While the rotenburo may be smaller than the indoor bath here in Shin-an, the three of us managed to find a comfortable corner each, and still managed to chat while enjoying the warmth of the waters in the breezy autumn evening.
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| A little soak before bedtime too |
Having two shy friends, I expected the two to leave the hot spring pretty early, but I did not expect them to leave after a soak of under 15 minutes. So, I ended up managing to hog the hot spring all by myself, having my drinks ready to keep myself hydrated for a much needed long soak.
As an ambivert who had been interpreting all day, this is the moment where sitting alone in the open-air bath gives the true magical touch! Imagine soaking in a steaming hot spring under the open sky, surrounded by peace and quiet, immersing myself in a 60°C bath really helped me to unwind.
The sound of the breeze, the chirping of birds, or the rustling leaves adds to the soothing ambiance. It’s the kind of bath that makes you feel like you’re part of the landscape, blending relaxation with a sense of adventure. My skin felt better with the full therapeutic benefits of the mineral-rich waters, it's as though the stress I've been bottling up from work had melted away!
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| Dyson hair dryer! |
Also, never in my life I would expect myself to have my very first Dyson hair dryer experience to be in a ryokan instead of my home country, but here we are, in Shin-an, drying our hair and got truly amazed with the experience.
With a full day of journey, even though we might have not seen everything this place had to offer, it was a relaxing day nonetheless. It was also a reminder that Beppu isn’t just about its famous hot springs—it’s also a place to connect with nature and find moments of tranquility, and I certainly hope I can come back again soon!
Other recommendations
If you have more time in Beppu, some of these places are also recommended! We strolled past, but couldn't make it to this trip ourselves, but they are all recommended by friends and colleagues as well that you may want to include them for your next trip! I know we would, so here are a couple of places that I recommend to also visit and try if you have the time!
- Steamed Pudding at Okamotoya
- Steamed pudding from Beppu is a delightful local treat that perfectly captures the charm and creativity of the city. Imagine a soft, moist, and slightly dense pudding with a rich, custard-like texture—almost like a cross between a classic flan and a steamed cake. It’s gently sweet, with a smooth, velvety mouthfeel that just melts in your mouth.
- The other jigoku
- Each jigoku has their own uniqueness! If you have extra time, you can definitely visit each and every one of them, as listed below!
- 鬼山地獄 (Oniyama Jigoku)
- かまど地獄 (Kamado Jigoku)
- 鬼石坊主地獄 (Oniishibozu Jigoku)
- 海地獄 (Umi Jigoku)
- 白池地獄 (Shiraike Jigoku)
- 龍巻地獄 (Tatsumaki Jigoku)
- 血の池地獄 (Chinoike Jigoku)
- Sand bath at Beppu Beach Sand Bath
- As the name suggests, here, you can literally bury yourself in naturally heated volcanic sand, letting its warmth soothe your muscles and calm your mind!
- Yukemuri Observatory
- If you have time during the sunset, come here for a bird’s-eye view of Beppu’s iconic steam rising from countless hot springs across the town!
From the breathtaking views at Beppu Ropeway to the soothing hot springs at Shin-An Ryokan, Day 3 was a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation. Stay tuned for Day 4 as we explore Takachiho’s mystical waterfalls and lush landscapes!
