With our time in Takachiho concluding with sunrise watching at Kunimigaoka Observatory and our breakfast back in Kamigakure, it is time for us to say our farewells to the mystical place blessed by the Gods - but is our spiritual journey truly over? Of course not! In this post today I'm going to take you to Kumamoto, but we aren't reaching the city just yet as we are still hoping to immerse ourselves with a little more spirituality — so we are visiting Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine!
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| Ugeto-Iwa, what a view |
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- The Name: What Does It Mean?
- The Myths: Gods, Legends, and a Cave
- Architecture and Design
- The Visiting Path: A Journey Through Nature
- Hall of Worship: Where Spirits Reside
- Ugeto-Iwa: A Window to the Divine
- How to Visit
- Tips for Visitors
Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine - An Introduction
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| Hiking up here is a reminder of how your efforts will always pay off |
Nestled in the lush forests of Takamori, Kumamoto, Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine (上色見熊野座神社) is a place where time seems to stand still. With its moss-covered stone lanterns, towering cedar trees, and a pathway that feels like it leads to another world, this shrine is a spiritual haven and a photographer’s dream. Whether you’re seeking tranquility, a connection to nature, or just a unique adventure, Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine is a must-visit.
We planned to visit here right before we visit Mt. Aso, a popular volcanic mountain located in Kumamoto, and figured that Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine is somewhere we can drop by en-route (okay I'll be honest, with just a slight detour) and the information we found online when we were researching for places to go were so promising we just couldn't bring ourselves to miss it!
But what makes this shrine so special? Is it the ancient myths that surround it? The breathtaking architecture that blends perfectly with its surrounding nature? Or the sense of peace that washes over you as you walk its sacred paths? Spoiler alert: it’s ✨all ✨ of the above. Join me as I take you through the history, myths, and my personal experience at this magical shrine!
The Name: What Does It Mean?
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| To bask under the sunlight dancing between the leaves with a breezy autumn is truly a refreshing experience. |
Let’s break down the shrine’s name, because it’s a mouthful to be read out, and a handful to be typed out! Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine (上色見熊野座神社) can be translated as “Upper Shikimi Kumano Shrine.” The shrine’s name, Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu, tells a story of its origins, and here’s what each part means:
- Kami (上): Refers to the “upper” part of a mountain or a stream. But in this context, it is referring to the upper part of Shikimi Village, which was once a small agricultural community.
- Shikimi (色見): The name of the village where the shrine is located in the Aso region.
- Kumanoimasu (熊野座): Indicates the shrine’s affiliation with the Kumano network, a group of over 3,000 shrines connected to the Kumano Sanzan in Wakayama Prefecture, dedicated to the Kumano deities. The group of shrines are known for their syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism.
So, in essence, the name tells us that this is the “Upper Shikimi Shrine” affiliated with the Kumano deities. Simple, right? Well, not really, but it’s fascinating how much history is packed into those few characters!
While the exact founding date is unclear, you can easily tell that this place has been here for centuries and centuries, especially with burial mounds discovered nearby and how they have now blended so perfectly with nature. The shrine itself is believed to have been established during the Kamakura or Muromachi periods (1185–1573). Despite being rebuilt multiple times—most recently in 1979—the shrine retains its ancient charm and spiritual significance.
The Myths: Gods, Legends, and a Cave
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| Doesn't this look mystical already? |
The shrine is dedicated to three deities: Izanagi, Izanami, and Takeiwatatsu no Mikoto. Izanagi and Izanami are central figures in Japanese mythology, credited with creating the Japanese islands and many Shinto deities. They are also the deities portrayed in the Goshintai dance of Yokagura we watched on the day before (read here). Takeiwatatsu, a legendary figure and grandson of Japan’s first emperor, is revered as the god of agriculture in the Aso region.
One of the shrine’s most fascinating features is the Ugeto-Iwa (穿戸岩), a massive rock with a hole in the middle. According to legend, Takeiwatatsu's assistant, Kihachi, kicked the rock in desperation while fleeing from his master. The cave is now a sacred site, believed to bring success in life and business to those who pay their respects.
But the myths don’t stop there. The shrine is also associated with the creation of the Aso region. Takeiwatatsu is said to have drained the volcanic lake in Mount Aso’s caldera by kicking down part of its rim, allowing the local people to become successful farmers. Talk about divine intervention!
Architecture and Design
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| Wished I took a closer photo, but there are sun and moon motifs in the lanterns that will also remind you of Amaterasu and Tsukuyomi |
The shrine’s design is a blend of natural beauty and traditional craftsmanship. The Visiting Path (参道/Sando) is its most iconic feature—a stone pathway lined with over 100 moss-covered lanterns, flanked by towering cedar trees. Walking this path feels like stepping into a Studio Ghibli film, with sunlight filtering through the trees and mist hanging in the air.
At the end of the path, you’ll find the Hall of Worship (拜殿//Haiden), a wooden structure built in the irimoya-zukuri style (or known as 'resting hill roof', commonly found in East Asian architecture). Its hip-and-gable roof is adorned with katsuogi (decorative wooden logs) and chigi (forked roof ornaments), symbolizing the presence of both male and female deities. Behind the Hall of Worship is the Main Hall (本殿/Honden), a smaller, more sacred building where the kami (Gods/Deities) reside.
The Visiting Path: A Journey Through Nature
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| The torii where the hike all begins |
The Visiting Path is the heart of the shrine's charm. With a short walk from the parking lot passing by some unmanned stalls selling local produces, you'll find a torii standing over a flight of stairs with a signboard of Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine. As you walk up the stone steps, you’ll pass by over 100 moss-covered lanterns, each donated by locals as a sign of gratitude. The path is flanked by towering cedar trees, their branches forming a natural canopy that filters the sunlight into a soft, ethereal glow.
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| Fun fact: Temizuya can also be read as Chouzuya, the word itself evolved over time so there are multiple ways of reading the kanji! |
Halfway up the path, you’ll find the Purification Fountain (手水舍/Temizuya), where visitors cleanse their hands and mouths before entering the sacred space (and no, you don't need drink it, you can just rinse your mouth with the water after cleansing your hands, and also, no, you don't spit the water back into where you scooped it from). The fountain is simple yet elegant, with water flowing slowly where you can relax in its sounds. It’s a reminder to leave the outside world behind and enter the shrine with a pure heart.
💡Pro Tip: Before you go beyond this point, you'd want to have a toilet break at the restroom right opposite of the temizuya, because you won't be able to find any ahead!
Hall of Worship: Where Kami Resides
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| Before we hike further from the temizuya |
One thing to note is that there is, in fact, quite a number of steps along the slope to take until you reach the haiden, but it is a nice walk in nature on the day we visited, so we took our time! It felt like we were basking in a soft shower of sunlight, sweating a little but quickly cooled down by the gentle autumn breeze, while I jokingly complained about my horrendous stamina while breathing the scent of the forest woods along with a sliver of petrichor as we watched the specks of sunlight danced over the ground. And with a bit of panting and chatting along the way, we finally arrived at the Hall of Worship.
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| I had to take a picture of the roof because it reminds me of a silly yet adorable face and it was so crowded to the point I couldn't take a proper photo of the main building |
The moment we saw the top of the stairs, we were definitely taken aback in surprise at how it was congested where we had to go 'excuse me' multiple times to get to the side of the main hall instead of standing along the stairs (mainly for personal safety, because I don't think it's safe to have tired legs while trying to queue to see what's ahead).
If I had to be honest, I initially thought this would've been a place with less tourists, or perhaps an off-the-beaten-path, a hidden gem or the sort, but to my surprise there are many tourists from Taiwan and Hong Kong (I can tell from their accents as a Mandarin speaker before you ask) visiting as well. Good for Kyushu, for sure!
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| This was really the best I could do because of the crowd |
Like many shrines, at the hall, you’ll find a rope with a bell attached. Visitors ring the bell to announce their arrival and offer a prayer. The atmosphere is serene, with the sound of the bells echoing through the forest. It’s a moment of connection, both with the kami and with the natural world around you.
After some waiting time while catching our breaths from the hike, we did manage to make our offerings despite the crowd, though we also noticed there were no omamori left for us to purchase. There are, however, people leaving their old omamori that has been expired into a designated box, but since the shrine appears to be unmanned, we assumed that they just happened to be sold out.
Ugeto-Iwa Cave: A Window to the Divine
While we were queuing, we heard some unique sounds echoing throughout the mountains. The sounds were melodious, pleasant to the ear, almost reminding me of sounds of bamboo pipes from traditional water fountains, but none of us could really place a finger on the actual source of the sound and found it mystical at the first place.
However, after paying our respects, and seeing there's a path ahead, we decided to follow the path, and that's how we began our journey continues up a steep staircase to the Ugeto-Iwa (穿戸岩). And just when we were almost wondering if we were going to really take up the challenge in the hike, we found these (see image below) and finally came to a realization on the source of the echoing melodies across the mountain. People were using these sticks as a walking stick, and the echoing sounds were the sounds of the bamboo sticks hitting the stone ground!
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| Bamboo sticks you can borrow as a hiking stick (remember to return them when you descend!) |
While none of us knew too much about the cave at first, we did decide that if my spine is hurting we'll be turning back. Thankfully, we didn't, and we did find out that the cave is a massive rock with a hole in the middle, and only after our trip we knew that it was believed to have been created by Takeiwatatsu’s assistant, Kihachi, as he fled from his master. The cave is now a sacred site, with a small shrine nestled inside.
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| A shot taken before we left |
Climbing to the cave is no easy feat—the stairs are steep, and the path is narrow—but the view from the top is worth it. It was also a windy morning, so we also had to queue a little to take pictures while trying to avoid getting sand into our eyes. However, as you stand at the entrance to the cave, you’ll feel a sense of awe and reverence. It’s a reminder of the power of nature and the divine, and a moment to reflect on your own journey. I was also immensely grateful that while I may not in perfect health, I still managed to finish the hike and I wish to be blessed with abundance in health from here onwards. After taking one final picture of the cave, we descended and moved to our lunch spot in Aso.
How to Visit
From our hotel at Kamigakure, it was about 45 minutes by car. We found a parking lot nearby for visitors of the shrine, bought some drinks from a nearby vending machine (because we craved for drinks we missed in Japan and couldn't find them easily anymore), and walked past these unmanned stalls until we found the flight of stairs.
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| You can put some cash and purchase local produce here. |
If you are visiting by bus, there are local buses on the Shikimi Loop Line. It takes about 16 minutes from Takamori Station, but the bus frequency is very low (only 4 trips outbound and 3 trips inbound for the year 2023). While the fare is affordable at only 200 yen per ride, the frequency may make it difficult for planning with limited time, so we'd still recommend renting a car when you visit southern Kyushu. You can check Sanko Bus's website for their latest schedule if you'd still like to find out more about it.
Alternately, you can also book a taxi in advance via this website if you are traveling within Aso. If you have more time to spend in southern Aso, there is also a pass you can consider: The Aso Minamiaso Travel Rail Bus Pass (Check details here and only purchase if it's applicable for your journey).
Tips for Visitors
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| You can see Ugeto-Iwa on top left of the image! |
- Arrive Early: The shrine is most peaceful in the early morning, before the crowds arrive.
- Wear Comfortable Shoes: The path can be slippery on a rainy day, and it is also on a slope, proper shoes would be highly recommended.
- Bring a Camera: The shrine and its surroundings are incredibly photogenic, you'll regret it if you don't have a camera with you!
- Respect the Sacred Space: Remember that this is a place of worship. Be mindful of your actions and keep noise to a minimum.
- Return the Bamboo Stick: It can be tempting to use the bamboo stick you borrowed, especially when you are not here with a hiking stick, but let's return what we borrowed so we don't leave bad karma. We're in a sacred place, after all!
- Be mindful of your condition: If you are feeling unwell, rest and use support when necessary. Do not force yourself to proceed and jeopardize your health, because your wellbeing is more important, and Japan will always be there until your next visit! Please take care!
And that concludes my introduction to Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine! Have you ever visited a shrine that felt like it was from another world? Or do you have a favorite spiritual spot in Japan? Let me know in the comments—I’d love to hear from you! And if you’re planning a trip to Kumamoto, don’t forget to book your accommodations and rental car using my links:
Happy travels, and may your journey to Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine be as magical as mine! ✨
