Some places guard their beauty like a jealous deity – and Kunen-an takes this to extremes. With only 9 autumn days during November to witness its famed autumn foliage, this garden feels less like a tourist spot and more like a whispered pact between nature and history. Here’s the stories of how we found ourselves Saga’s best-kept secret – complete with drizzle-dodging, ceramic treasure hunts, and a 800-year-old tree that reminds me of traces of spirituality everywhere.
Our trip to was not booked solely to meet Kunen-an's 9-day autumn window, but as soon as the joy I had upon discovering the coincidence of our days Kyushu meeting the said window washed over me, I knew we had to be here. Overjoyed with the fact that this would be a rare sight and easily be the highlight of our second half of the journey, I was certain that visiting Kunen-an is nothing lesser than my spiritual calling. With a nice breakfast from our hotel filling our tummies, we drove all the way from our hotel and made seeing Kunen-an the first thing to do in the morning.
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| Welcomed by the scene as soon as we arrived by bus |
Located in Kanzaki of Saga prefecture, Kunen-an is accessible by public transportation. However, since we have rented a car, I've decided for our trio to drive to Yoshinogarirekishi Koen Nishiguchirinji Parking Lot after doing some girl math. It's a temporary lot that charges us 500 yen for each car, but offers free shuttle for us to reach Niiyama Park where we can enjoy a scenic walk towards Kunen-an. Public buses would be 300 yen per person, so that saves us 400 yen in total! Not much, but enough to get us some snacks! It rained as soon as we parked our car, but luckily enough, it turned into drizzles throughout our bus ride, and stopped the moment we arrived at Kunen-an!
The Nine-Year Garden: Itami Yataro’s Obsession
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| My eyes were set on the trees in the middle, they look edible |
Commissioned in 1900 by Meiji-era tycoon Itami Yataro, Kunen-an (九年庵) translates to “Nine-Year Hermitage” – a nod to the obsessive timeline its creator imposed. Itami's family ran businesses, and other than that, Yataro is well-known with his involvement with railway companies as well as his efforts to electrify Saga as the first boss-man of Nishitetsu. While it was uncertain of the exact reason Yataro decided to build Kunen-an, but it was certain that Kunen-an revealed the poetic side of this tycoon, where it was a retreat where traditional boardroom ruthlessness met tea ceremony refinement.
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| The reflection was marvelous |
Unlike typical Japanese gardens built for shoguns or monks, this 68,000㎡ retreat was a passion project by a banking magnate seeking mountain solace. In return, it gifted us a shakkei masterpiece that blended the distant Mount Sefuri and the Ariake Sea into its design, creating a panorama that feels both intimate and infinite.
The Shakkei Technique - Borrowing Eternity
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| Oh to smell the scent of fresh air and petrichor all at once |
Kunen-an’s beauty lies in its shakkei (借景) design, where the kanji characters literally means "borrow" and "scenery" respectively. Shakkei is a 17th-century gardening philosophy that “borrows” distant landscapes to create infinite vistas. As we wandered the mossy paths and navigated between visitors to find a photo spot for our new profile photo, we couldn't help but to admire at the genius of Kurume-no-Hotori framing Saga’s wilderness like a living painting: peaks of Mount Sefuri’s became the garden’s backdrop, while the Ariake Sea’s tidal flats reflected in the villa’s koi ponds. This wasn’t just landscaping, it was a gateway to leap into dimensions of space and time.
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| I too, would love to have a retreat here |
Rejecting rigid Edo-era styles, Hotori pioneered Shizen-ryū (“Natural School”) – a philosophy honoring existing topography. By aligning maple groves with the sunrise and shaping stone lanterns to mimic far-off islands, Hotori made seasons and geography conspire to humble visitors. Hotori’s masterstroke? The “hidden asymmetry”. Though the villa appears haphazardly placed, each thatched roof aligns with a celestial event – the east wing catches autumn moonrises, while the west veranda frames winter solstice sunsets. The thatched-roof villa itself is a study in rustic elegance. Different from those you can find in the popular UNESCO World Heritage Shiakawago, what you can find here in Kunen-an is built with:
- 🏡 Madake bamboo benches that creak like our backbones in mid-life crisis
- 🎋 Sugi bark-paneled clay walls whispering of Edo craftsmanship
- 🍵 Sukiya-zukuri tea house architecture with hidden alcoves for moon-viewing
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| Close up shot of moss in Kunen-an, topped with an autumn maple leaf |
But the real star, in my humble opinion, isn't something seen from the eye level. It's way beneath – the garden’s “moss carpet”. The velvety green expanse made me completely, and I do mean utterly incapable of resisting the temptations to squat down just to have a feel – a little chilly perhaps from the drizzles earlier, and oddly addictive to touch, and they aren't as prickly as they may seem if looked from close. With all of these pieced together, and perhaps more hidden details that have gone unnoticed, calling this place beauty disguised as chaos may be an understatement as the details here left me squinting everywhere – even at shadows like a cat intrigued with absolutely anything in sight.
Autumn vs. Spring – One Garden, Two Flavors
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| The greenery, the calmness, and the Zen |
I did mention that you can visit Kunen-an within the span of 9 days every autumn, but there's something else I should also tell you – it also opens for three days during spring, every May! Even though Kunen-an’s autumn fame overshadows its spring rebirth, springtime in Kunen-an gives you a breath of freshness that you'd want to stay here for more than just an hour.
In November, the garden blazes with 300 maple varieties – from yamamomiji (mountain crimson) to oosakazuki (giant teacup leaves). But May’s “limited green viewing” offers subtler magic: scents of morning dew, baby koi darting through duckweed, and moss so vivid it glows like jade under rain. I don't know about you, but I swear spring’s shinryoku (新緑, which means new green) smells different in Japan – imagine a crispness in the air laced with freshness, and perhaps also listening to the flowing waters from a hidden, perhaps secret corner near Niiyama Shrine. Doesn't that sound refreshingly pleasant itself?
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| Taken outside Jizoin |
While we may have missed it by six months, but hey, where autumn screams, spring sighs. A truth as bitter as the matcha we drank: even paradise has its price. Guess I'll have no choice but to plan another trip during spring, if I can ever avoid the Golden Week seasonal charges when Kunen-an opens for spring, that is.
Niiyama Shrine: Where Trees Are Gods
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| There's just something alluring in nature's beauty |
Nearby Kunen-an, there are many shrines surrounding it. Let's be real, my stamina isn't great after days and days of walking, and by the time we're here, it's almost lunch time, so I didn't have the stamina to visit more temples other than Niiyama Shrine and Jizoin (and purchased more omamori, for once again). However, one popular place that many would visit while being here is no other than Niiyama Shrine – a spiritual heavyweight disguised as a quiet grove.
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| Niiyama Shrine from the side |
Why Niiyama Shrine, you asked? It's because not only is the shrine close to Kunen-an, it is also home to:
- 🌳 Twin camphor trees aged 800 and 600 years (their gnarled roots look like dragon scales)
- ⛩️ A 17th-century Nio-mon gate guarded by glowering Kongōrikishi statues
- 🎭 The Ondamai Festival held every 12 years (next in 2028, every year of the Monkey!)
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| The hike to Niiyama Shrine |
If you realized how Ondamai Festival is held during the year of Monkey, then you'll probably figure that the deity here in Niiyama Shrine is, in fact, a monkey, and you can find monkey statues everywhere around Niiyama Shrine. While the walking space near the main building isn't exactly what I'd call spacious, it is still a pleasant visit. I couldn't help but to feel the air humming with spiritual energy that’s equal parts soothing and spine-tingling when I glanced at the back of the main shrine building right after purchasing my omamori, and decided to trust my intuition to take a look behind the main building.
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| Monkeys, monkeys everywhere |
With my piqued curiosity, I insisted to have our trio all walk to the back of the shrine building. To our (pleasant) surprise, we found a little corner with a row of monkey statues and little wishing spots, which then more people happened to notice us entering the little alley and followed through to all gasp in awe because let's be honest, I don't think anyone would really decide to check out the back of a shrine when it isn't exactly the most well-illuminated area, but my curiosity and intuition certainly have rewarded me.
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| More monkeys in the back alley |
And that with our curiosity satisfied, we took a small detour to Jizoin to pray in the beautiful temple with such a mesmerizing ceiling that it is such a pity we couldn't take pictures inside. I also did purchase a few more omamori (yes, again) before happily walking back to Niiyama Park, while also grabbing a set of Rinsai ceramic cup and saucer and some snacks before arriving back at Niiyama Park for our ride back to the car park.
Practical Magic: Parking, Rain, and Ceramic Souvenirs
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| Manhole |
Visiting Kunen-an did feel like a treasure hunt, and accessing it is easy from Saga Station/City Center:
- 🚗 Drive 25 mins to Yoshinogarirekishi Koen Nishiguchirinji Parking Lot. Parking is ¥500 (Map Code: 37 541 813*16)
- 🚌 Board the free shuttle bus that drops you off at Niiyama Park
- ☔ Pray to weather gods – our drizzle stopped magically as the bus arrived at Niiyama Park!
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| A rainbow before we're headed to our next destination, what a blessing |
And before I forget, I should mention that the walk to and from Kunen-an is a gauntlet of temptation, with:
🍁 Street stalls selling grilled ginnan (ginkgo nuts) that costed us 100 yen
🍶 Handmade Arita-yaki teacups (Saga’s 400-year-old porcelain legacy)
🍠 Daigakuimo tempura so crisp, it crackled like autumn itself with the owner joked about letting us eat for free if it's not delicious by the slightest (we paid, of course, and it was 300 yen, so the total was just perfect 400 yen we saved for driving).
🍶 Handmade Arita-yaki teacups (Saga’s 400-year-old porcelain legacy)
🍠 Daigakuimo tempura so crisp, it crackled like autumn itself with the owner joked about letting us eat for free if it's not delicious by the slightest (we paid, of course, and it was 300 yen, so the total was just perfect 400 yen we saved for driving).
Key Details for Time Travelers
⏰ 2025 Open Dates:
🍁 Autumn: To be announced later in 2025, please check here for latest updates.
🌸 Spring: May 3-5 (Last entry 4:00 PM)
🎟️ Admission: ¥800 adults / ¥400 kids (cash only, price may increase)
🚫 Closed: Year-round, except the 12 days opening window throughout the year
📸 Important Notes:
🍁 Autumn: To be announced later in 2025, please check here for latest updates.
🌸 Spring: May 3-5 (Last entry 4:00 PM)
🎟️ Admission: ¥800 adults / ¥400 kids (cash only, price may increase)
🚫 Closed: Year-round, except the 12 days opening window throughout the year
📸 Important Notes:
- This location is not wheelchair friendly. It is also not stroller friendly.
- It is pet-friendly if you can carry them in your arms at all times.
- You are not allowed to bring tripods or similar tooks for photography in Kunen-an.
- You are also not allowed to eat or drink in Kunen-an, but there are places to dine nearby.
Would you brave Saga’s backroads for 12 days of magic? Or does fleeting beauty scare you? Let’s debate below! 🍂
*Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps keep the blog running - thank you! 🙏
With our time in Takachiho concluding with sunrise watching at Kunimigaoka Observatory and our breakfast back in Kamigakure, it is time for us to say our farewells to the mystical place blessed by the Gods - but is our spiritual journey truly over? Of course not! In this post today I'm going to take you to Kumamoto, but we aren't reaching the city just yet as we are still hoping to immerse ourselves with a little more spirituality — so we are visiting Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine!
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| Ugeto-Iwa, what a view |
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- The Name: What Does It Mean?
- The Myths: Gods, Legends, and a Cave
- Architecture and Design
- The Visiting Path: A Journey Through Nature
- Hall of Worship: Where Spirits Reside
- Ugeto-Iwa: A Window to the Divine
- How to Visit
- Tips for Visitors
Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine - An Introduction
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| Hiking up here is a reminder of how your efforts will always pay off |
Nestled in the lush forests of Takamori, Kumamoto, Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine (上色見熊野座神社) is a place where time seems to stand still. With its moss-covered stone lanterns, towering cedar trees, and a pathway that feels like it leads to another world, this shrine is a spiritual haven and a photographer’s dream. Whether you’re seeking tranquility, a connection to nature, or just a unique adventure, Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine is a must-visit.
We planned to visit here right before we visit Mt. Aso, a popular volcanic mountain located in Kumamoto, and figured that Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine is somewhere we can drop by en-route (okay I'll be honest, with just a slight detour) and the information we found online when we were researching for places to go were so promising we just couldn't bring ourselves to miss it!
But what makes this shrine so special? Is it the ancient myths that surround it? The breathtaking architecture that blends perfectly with its surrounding nature? Or the sense of peace that washes over you as you walk its sacred paths? Spoiler alert: it’s ✨all ✨ of the above. Join me as I take you through the history, myths, and my personal experience at this magical shrine!
The Name: What Does It Mean?
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| To bask under the sunlight dancing between the leaves with a breezy autumn is truly a refreshing experience. |
Let’s break down the shrine’s name, because it’s a mouthful to be read out, and a handful to be typed out! Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine (上色見熊野座神社) can be translated as “Upper Shikimi Kumano Shrine.” The shrine’s name, Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu, tells a story of its origins, and here’s what each part means:
- Kami (上): Refers to the “upper” part of a mountain or a stream. But in this context, it is referring to the upper part of Shikimi Village, which was once a small agricultural community.
- Shikimi (色見): The name of the village where the shrine is located in the Aso region.
- Kumanoimasu (熊野座): Indicates the shrine’s affiliation with the Kumano network, a group of over 3,000 shrines connected to the Kumano Sanzan in Wakayama Prefecture, dedicated to the Kumano deities. The group of shrines are known for their syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism.
So, in essence, the name tells us that this is the “Upper Shikimi Shrine” affiliated with the Kumano deities. Simple, right? Well, not really, but it’s fascinating how much history is packed into those few characters!
While the exact founding date is unclear, you can easily tell that this place has been here for centuries and centuries, especially with burial mounds discovered nearby and how they have now blended so perfectly with nature. The shrine itself is believed to have been established during the Kamakura or Muromachi periods (1185–1573). Despite being rebuilt multiple times—most recently in 1979—the shrine retains its ancient charm and spiritual significance.
The Myths: Gods, Legends, and a Cave
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| Doesn't this look mystical already? |
The shrine is dedicated to three deities: Izanagi, Izanami, and Takeiwatatsu no Mikoto. Izanagi and Izanami are central figures in Japanese mythology, credited with creating the Japanese islands and many Shinto deities. They are also the deities portrayed in the Goshintai dance of Yokagura we watched on the day before (read here). Takeiwatatsu, a legendary figure and grandson of Japan’s first emperor, is revered as the god of agriculture in the Aso region.
One of the shrine’s most fascinating features is the Ugeto-Iwa (穿戸岩), a massive rock with a hole in the middle. According to legend, Takeiwatatsu's assistant, Kihachi, kicked the rock in desperation while fleeing from his master. The cave is now a sacred site, believed to bring success in life and business to those who pay their respects.
But the myths don’t stop there. The shrine is also associated with the creation of the Aso region. Takeiwatatsu is said to have drained the volcanic lake in Mount Aso’s caldera by kicking down part of its rim, allowing the local people to become successful farmers. Talk about divine intervention!
Architecture and Design
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| Wished I took a closer photo, but there are sun and moon motifs in the lanterns that will also remind you of Amaterasu and Tsukuyomi |
The shrine’s design is a blend of natural beauty and traditional craftsmanship. The Visiting Path (参道/Sando) is its most iconic feature—a stone pathway lined with over 100 moss-covered lanterns, flanked by towering cedar trees. Walking this path feels like stepping into a Studio Ghibli film, with sunlight filtering through the trees and mist hanging in the air.
At the end of the path, you’ll find the Hall of Worship (拜殿//Haiden), a wooden structure built in the irimoya-zukuri style (or known as 'resting hill roof', commonly found in East Asian architecture). Its hip-and-gable roof is adorned with katsuogi (decorative wooden logs) and chigi (forked roof ornaments), symbolizing the presence of both male and female deities. Behind the Hall of Worship is the Main Hall (本殿/Honden), a smaller, more sacred building where the kami (Gods/Deities) reside.
The Visiting Path: A Journey Through Nature
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| The torii where the hike all begins |
The Visiting Path is the heart of the shrine's charm. With a short walk from the parking lot passing by some unmanned stalls selling local produces, you'll find a torii standing over a flight of stairs with a signboard of Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine. As you walk up the stone steps, you’ll pass by over 100 moss-covered lanterns, each donated by locals as a sign of gratitude. The path is flanked by towering cedar trees, their branches forming a natural canopy that filters the sunlight into a soft, ethereal glow.
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| Fun fact: Temizuya can also be read as Chouzuya, the word itself evolved over time so there are multiple ways of reading the kanji! |
Halfway up the path, you’ll find the Purification Fountain (手水舍/Temizuya), where visitors cleanse their hands and mouths before entering the sacred space (and no, you don't need drink it, you can just rinse your mouth with the water after cleansing your hands, and also, no, you don't spit the water back into where you scooped it from). The fountain is simple yet elegant, with water flowing slowly where you can relax in its sounds. It’s a reminder to leave the outside world behind and enter the shrine with a pure heart.
💡Pro Tip: Before you go beyond this point, you'd want to have a toilet break at the restroom right opposite of the temizuya, because you won't be able to find any ahead!
Hall of Worship: Where Kami Resides
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| Before we hike further from the temizuya |
One thing to note is that there is, in fact, quite a number of steps along the slope to take until you reach the haiden, but it is a nice walk in nature on the day we visited, so we took our time! It felt like we were basking in a soft shower of sunlight, sweating a little but quickly cooled down by the gentle autumn breeze, while I jokingly complained about my horrendous stamina while breathing the scent of the forest woods along with a sliver of petrichor as we watched the specks of sunlight danced over the ground. And with a bit of panting and chatting along the way, we finally arrived at the Hall of Worship.
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| I had to take a picture of the roof because it reminds me of a silly yet adorable face and it was so crowded to the point I couldn't take a proper photo of the main building |
The moment we saw the top of the stairs, we were definitely taken aback in surprise at how it was congested where we had to go 'excuse me' multiple times to get to the side of the main hall instead of standing along the stairs (mainly for personal safety, because I don't think it's safe to have tired legs while trying to queue to see what's ahead).
If I had to be honest, I initially thought this would've been a place with less tourists, or perhaps an off-the-beaten-path, a hidden gem or the sort, but to my surprise there are many tourists from Taiwan and Hong Kong (I can tell from their accents as a Mandarin speaker before you ask) visiting as well. Good for Kyushu, for sure!
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| This was really the best I could do because of the crowd |
Like many shrines, at the hall, you’ll find a rope with a bell attached. Visitors ring the bell to announce their arrival and offer a prayer. The atmosphere is serene, with the sound of the bells echoing through the forest. It’s a moment of connection, both with the kami and with the natural world around you.
After some waiting time while catching our breaths from the hike, we did manage to make our offerings despite the crowd, though we also noticed there were no omamori left for us to purchase. There are, however, people leaving their old omamori that has been expired into a designated box, but since the shrine appears to be unmanned, we assumed that they just happened to be sold out.
Ugeto-Iwa Cave: A Window to the Divine
While we were queuing, we heard some unique sounds echoing throughout the mountains. The sounds were melodious, pleasant to the ear, almost reminding me of sounds of bamboo pipes from traditional water fountains, but none of us could really place a finger on the actual source of the sound and found it mystical at the first place.
However, after paying our respects, and seeing there's a path ahead, we decided to follow the path, and that's how we began our journey continues up a steep staircase to the Ugeto-Iwa (穿戸岩). And just when we were almost wondering if we were going to really take up the challenge in the hike, we found these (see image below) and finally came to a realization on the source of the echoing melodies across the mountain. People were using these sticks as a walking stick, and the echoing sounds were the sounds of the bamboo sticks hitting the stone ground!
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| Bamboo sticks you can borrow as a hiking stick (remember to return them when you descend!) |
While none of us knew too much about the cave at first, we did decide that if my spine is hurting we'll be turning back. Thankfully, we didn't, and we did find out that the cave is a massive rock with a hole in the middle, and only after our trip we knew that it was believed to have been created by Takeiwatatsu’s assistant, Kihachi, as he fled from his master. The cave is now a sacred site, with a small shrine nestled inside.
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| A shot taken before we left |
Climbing to the cave is no easy feat—the stairs are steep, and the path is narrow—but the view from the top is worth it. It was also a windy morning, so we also had to queue a little to take pictures while trying to avoid getting sand into our eyes. However, as you stand at the entrance to the cave, you’ll feel a sense of awe and reverence. It’s a reminder of the power of nature and the divine, and a moment to reflect on your own journey. I was also immensely grateful that while I may not in perfect health, I still managed to finish the hike and I wish to be blessed with abundance in health from here onwards. After taking one final picture of the cave, we descended and moved to our lunch spot in Aso.
How to Visit
From our hotel at Kamigakure, it was about 45 minutes by car. We found a parking lot nearby for visitors of the shrine, bought some drinks from a nearby vending machine (because we craved for drinks we missed in Japan and couldn't find them easily anymore), and walked past these unmanned stalls until we found the flight of stairs.
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| You can put some cash and purchase local produce here. |
If you are visiting by bus, there are local buses on the Shikimi Loop Line. It takes about 16 minutes from Takamori Station, but the bus frequency is very low (only 4 trips outbound and 3 trips inbound for the year 2023). While the fare is affordable at only 200 yen per ride, the frequency may make it difficult for planning with limited time, so we'd still recommend renting a car when you visit southern Kyushu. You can check Sanko Bus's website for their latest schedule if you'd still like to find out more about it.
Alternately, you can also book a taxi in advance via this website if you are traveling within Aso. If you have more time to spend in southern Aso, there is also a pass you can consider: The Aso Minamiaso Travel Rail Bus Pass (Check details here and only purchase if it's applicable for your journey).
Tips for Visitors
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| You can see Ugeto-Iwa on top left of the image! |
- Arrive Early: The shrine is most peaceful in the early morning, before the crowds arrive.
- Wear Comfortable Shoes: The path can be slippery on a rainy day, and it is also on a slope, proper shoes would be highly recommended.
- Bring a Camera: The shrine and its surroundings are incredibly photogenic, you'll regret it if you don't have a camera with you!
- Respect the Sacred Space: Remember that this is a place of worship. Be mindful of your actions and keep noise to a minimum.
- Return the Bamboo Stick: It can be tempting to use the bamboo stick you borrowed, especially when you are not here with a hiking stick, but let's return what we borrowed so we don't leave bad karma. We're in a sacred place, after all!
- Be mindful of your condition: If you are feeling unwell, rest and use support when necessary. Do not force yourself to proceed and jeopardize your health, because your wellbeing is more important, and Japan will always be there until your next visit! Please take care!
And that concludes my introduction to Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine! Have you ever visited a shrine that felt like it was from another world? Or do you have a favorite spiritual spot in Japan? Let me know in the comments—I’d love to hear from you! And if you’re planning a trip to Kumamoto, don’t forget to book your accommodations and rental car using my links:
Happy travels, and may your journey to Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine be as magical as mine! ✨