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Jin Travels Japan

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Saga Beef at Kira Honten

Michelin stars can be intimidating for casual diners – unless you happen to be three Malaysians filled with adrenaline from an 8-hour road trip in Kyushu ready to indulge in some Saga Beef. After being turned away from our initial dining choice (because it was closed by the time we arrived after leaving Saga Castle History Museum), our hunger made us searching for nearby restaurants that serve Saga beef - be it Google Maps or Tabelog while Friend B drove stressfully until we came to a decision.

Me: "Girls do we want to indulge in wagyu tonight?"
Friend A: "Let's go!"
Me: "But this restaurant looks like it's gonna be way beyond our budget compared to where we planned to dine, y'all really okay with it?"
Friend A: "I'm already hungry..."
Friend B: "What about the reviews?"
Me: "3.63 on Tabelog, over 4 stars on Google Maps, yeah I guess we'll head here, YOLO"
Friend B: "Swipe the card let's go!" (with a sliver of stress flashing across her expression)

And that's how we stumbled upon Kira Saga (佐賀牛レストラン 季楽 本店) like hungry zombies, but our patience were surely being tested. How did that happen? In this post we'll delve into how this unexpected ¥8,800-per-person (now approximately RM260+) experience turned into a memorable chapter in our day in Saga.


The Spontaneous Decision: Michelin Timing in the Best Saga Wagyu Restaurant

Chopstick Holder at Kira Honten
Bamboo-themed chopstick holder with Kira's logo on the table and the wrapping
It was 7:15 PM on a Tuesday with no reservations. We didn't think this through (not that we had enough time to, because our car's already in the city and had nowhere to stop) and just a few minutes later we already found ourselves a nice parking spot right opposite of the restaurant, and walked right in right before the night sky began to drizzle. Thankfully enough, being capable of communicating in Japanese definitely helped, because I did not realize reservations beforehand is highly recommended and it was definitely my bad for deciding on a fancy place without plans.

After getting agreement among my little trio, we said it's fine to wait and was led to the waiting room right next to the restaurant's counter. The waiting area, filled with the quirky charm of Japanese TV, served as my oasis. The comfortable sofa, the amount of books that I don't usually get to read back home in Malaysia, the cozy, well-conditioned temperature did give out the vibes that we, are definitely going to break our budget for our trip a little more than we expected - especially when my hunger made me hallucinate the fragrance of the meat we were about to have.

The TV shows and the books did help us to counter the discomfort of our hunger with a little bit of quiet chit-chatting between Friend A and Friend B while I was indulging myself in books related to the flowers found in Japan, and 20 minutes passed so easily that there was even a fragment of a split second that I wished I could read just a little longer – but our hunger said no, so we agreed to be led to our seats, and this was when our dining experience began!


Saga Beef: How a 1980s Experiment Became Wagyu Royalty

Saga Beef at Kira Honten
Each streak of marbling telling a flavorful story, coming in a portion for three. 
Before we start, there's a little story to tell, of course. And it's true that there are, in fact, plenty of places to try eating wagyu (Japanese beef), but Saga's beef is unique, because c'mon, let’s get one thing straight – Saga-gyu is the overachieving youngest sibling of Japan’s wagyu dynasty. While Kobe beef is, needless to say in my opinion, overly popular due to marketing since the late 19th century, and Matsusaka beef is way too far from where we're currently at (they are in Mie prefecture, originated in the Edo Era), Saga beef burst onto the scene in 1988 like a culinary freshman:
  • 🐄 Bloodline: 
    • 1983: Local farmers start bovine matchmaking (Japanese Black × European stock)
    • 1988: Official certification – less flashy, all substance.
  • 🎯 Standard: Beef Marbling Score ≥7/12 – imagine fat veins forming topographical maps of flavor
  • 🌿 Diet and Lifestyle: Daily massages? Maybe. But definitely zero-stress pastures with fresh air and expert-designed meals that'd make most of us jealous

The result? Marbling so intricate it’s earned its tsuya-sashi (“glossy fat”) glory, and note that there's only 0.5% of Japan’s beef having this title! At Kira, our tenderloin resembled cherry blossom petals suspended in snow – until the teppan transformed it into edible velvet.


Saga-gyu Performance: From Farm to Grill

To be frankly honest, we are just three girls who were in our late 20s when we visited Kira, and the sight of the menu itself did give us a shock, but we were also too tired and hungry to chicken out on what we just said earlier, so we contemplated for a moment and decided to order their grilled Saga beef steak that offers tenderloin and loin (Or 佐賀牛カットステーキ(ヒレ&ロース)on the Japanese menu) on top of seasonal appetizers, rice, drinks, and dessert.


Autumn Appetizer at Kira Honten
Seasonal appetizers: Squid and bamboo shoot, duck, mushroom, onions, and tofu with texture so heavenly I was speechless
Our dining experience here in Kira unfolded like a culinary spectacle:
  • 🎵 Zensai Moriawase (前菜盛合せ): A selection of four intricate appetizers neatly plated. I was first intrigued with the squid at first, but I'm glad to save the tofu for the last – the smoothness is out of the world and it does gives out a taste of luxury!
  • 🔥 Main Event: A whole big plate of A5 Saga-gyu – showcasing the delicacy of tenderloin against the robustness of loin
  • 🌱 Intermezzo: Grilled seasonal vegetables evoking the earthy essence of autumn
  • 🍚 Finale: Endless servings of rice bathed in savory beef juices

The pleasant part of the wagyu dining experience is that the staff will attentively confirm your needs, whether it's tea refill or answering questions that you have. Since I'm just a girl with close to zero experience in luxury, I had so many questions that I talked a lot to the staff from whether there's an order in eating the appetizers (she said no, we can dine in any way we prefer), to some of the history of the beef.

One memorable part that I still remember till this very day is the moment Friend B noticed the spiciness from their chopped-carrot-looking condiment. Out of curiosity, I bothered the staff again, which to our surprise, we found out that they added radish. Knowing personally that horseradish can also make things spicy, we were in awe and continued discussing among ourselves on how radishes or horseradish made it so spicy, where I accepted the answer readily without noticing her heading back to the kitchen – only to confirm it with the chef again to inform us that there were actually also chili essence added into it. Which then, of course, made us all go 'ah, so THAT's why' and thanked her profusely for her efforts to clarify things for us.

Vegetables at Kira Honten
"Jin, eat your  greens," my friends lectured, and I reluctantly ate the mushrooms and tofu in the end to find the texture interesting
As for the Saga beef? Dear heavens, just imagine something velvety that melts into a symphony of umami. With years of experience grilling meat and dining in sukiyaki restaurants in almost every outing we had as soon as we reunite in Kuala Lumpur, my friends' precise teppan skills definitely made me salivate. It's like it was choreographed with sizzling finesse, and watching my two friends transforming our meal into an artistic performance while I was speaking and translating is quite the experience. The unveiling of the Michelin accolade post-feast shed light on why the vegetables played second fiddle to the star of the show – the beef.


Wagyu Wars: Saga vs. The Contenders

Saga Beef Dinner at Kira Honten
An overview of our main course in Kira
I don't mean to sound like a broken record, but yes, there are different kinds of wagyu in Japan. I wouldn't call myself a connoisseur when I don't consume wagyu every day, but I can definitely compare a couple and let you decide if you'd like to give them a try! 

Kobe Beef: The heavyweight champ. Rich. Buttery. Lingers like a Shakespearean soliloquy. But at 120% the price of Saga? Debatable.
Matsusaka Beef: Mie’s darling. Sweetness? Delicate. Think ballet vs. Saga’s contemporary dance. It's the foie gras tenderness that makes it second to none.
Miyazaki Beef: Kyushu’s other star. Bolder umami from volcanic soil. If Saga is jazz, Miyazaki is blues.
Hida Beef: Mountain-grown robustness. Earthier notes perfect for red wine pairings. Saga’s more versatile with sake (I don't recommend drinking and driving btw).

Our take? Saga Beef strikes Goldilocks’ balance – luxurious without being cloying, complex but not overwhelming. It melts into your mouth almost the instant your taste buds are in contact with it. Succulent and juicy, so buttery soft, robust but never overwhelming, Saga beef is the well-rounded choice that I believe nobody would want to miss.


Beefing on a Budget: 5 Insider Hacks

After our ¥26,400 dinner (no regrets!), we all said our wishes to be financially abundant enough to dine happily like this without feeling the slightest bit of pressure. But of course, until the day comes, there are actually ways to savor Saga-gyu without selling kidneys:
  • 🕰️ Lunch Gambit: Kira’s midday sets start at ¥3,800 – same cows, not the teppan for sure, but much more wallet-friendly.
  • 🧂 Salt Doctrine: Resist sauce FOMO. A pinch of yukishio snow salt lets the beef’s natural umami shine. They also offer wasabi and yuzu pepper when requested, but honestly it's wonderful on its own.
  • 🔥 Teppan Tactic: Wait for the grill’s “dragon breath” phase before searing. 20 seconds per side max – these aren’t as affordable as a meal at the mamak stall after all
  • 🛒 DIY Route: Grab A5 Saga-gyu steaks at Aeon Mall, book an Airbnb with a kitchen, and host a feast. Just don’t trigger smoke alarms!
  • 🍣 Gateway Beef: Try basashi (horse sashimi) first. After that, ¥2,000 beef sushi feels reasonable. Japanese logic!


Unveiling the Cost


Dessert and Fruit Juice at Kira Honten
Dessert - Cake and Fruits with Juice
Lets confront the ¥8,800-per-head question:

✅ Reasons to Indulge:
  • Enthusiasts of fine beef desiring the distinctiveness of A5 Saga-gyu's origin (influenced by a diet rich in minerals from Ariake seaweed)
  • Admirers of culinary theater who relish chef interactions
  • Special occasions seeking a lasting memory of splurging in Saga

❌ Consider Passing if:
  • You perceive Wagyu as merely fatty (these cuts offer surprising texture)
  • You prefer quiet dining experiences (sizzling sounds are part of the charm)
  • Your budget is tight (they offer lunch sets starting at ¥3,800 though!)


Musings from Malaysian Food Enthusiasts

Saga Beef Restaurant Kira Honten
Kira's sign
Coming from a background of enjoying RM50+ beef shabu shabu in KL, we deliberated:
  • Friend A: "I'm surprised people enjoy spiciness here!" (Hint: Chili oil is included as condiment)"
  • Friend B: "This surpasses Lot 10's Wagyu by miles"
  • Me: "The rice refills rescued me from financial trauma for sure" (Says the one who had three bowls of rice and shocked the staff for once again because hey, the rice is also locally produced in Saga!)

Saga Beef Restaurant Kira Honten
The entrance that greets you
Is the price truly worth it? I'd say so. Not just because of how wonderful Saga beef was for us, but also because of the service offered. It was pouring the moment I decided to pay for our bill, and while they lent Friend B an umbrella so she can drive the car to the restaurant's entrance. However, since the entrance is somewhat congested with taxis because it's also time where most of us finished dinner, I managed to chat with the staff at the cashier to learn that while they are popular with Japanese diners, many tourists from Taiwan and Hong Kong also visited their restaurant.

Funnily enough, that was actually the moment I came to a realization that we've just dined at a Michelin-starred restaurant, and also the moment I understood the bill we paid for. The chat with the staff was pleasantly formal, and the staff also made sure to shield us with umbrellas as we boarded our rental car as soon as Friend B arrived at the entrance, and I was definitely happy that the skirt I wore was not wet by the slightest! And so that ended our night in Saga as soon as we manage to check into our hotel right after.


Handy Suggestions for Fellow Explorers

🍴 Reservation Tip: 
  • Walk-ins are feasible during off-peak times (for our case, we were lucky), but when possible, secure teppan counter seats in advance. Generally, for reservations, just call the respective branch's phone number (they have another branch in Ginza) so you can reduce the wait time like we did. 
  • When making reservations, please make sure to show up on time as many foreign visitors in the past (maybe not you and I, but can't say about the others... iykwim) unfortunately gave a bad reputation of no-shows or last-minute cancellations, so there could be a chance your reservation could get declined. In cases like this, perhaps a reputable travel agency such as H.I.S. could help (fees may apply and no this is not a sponsored post).
👶 Child Policy: Children under 10 not permitted at teppan counters – plan accordingly
🌾 Allergy Consideration: Gluten-free? Notify them when booking (soy sauce features prominently)
🚗 Post-Meal Tranquility: Adequate parking available for rental cars – a total of 70, essential to avoid the hangry from looking for a parking spot


Would you take the gamble on unplanned Michelin experiences? Or does leaving it to the chef make your wallet uneasy? Share your beefy opinions below! 🥩

*Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps keep the blog running - thank you! 🙏

🏨 Book Saga Hotels 🚗 Rent a Car via Trip.com ✈️ Flights to Fukuoka
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Evening exterior view of Saga Castle History Museum
Evening exterior view of Saga Castle History Museum

Many castle museums serve as relics frozen in time, but Saga Castle History Museum stands out as a portal to the past. When your socks sink into properly maintained tatami mats lining floors built without nails, you’re not just observing history – you’re literally walking through the exact dimensions where samurai plotted Japan’s industrial revolution. Discover why this meticulously reconstructed castle, originally from 1838, stands as Kyushu's hidden gem bridging history with the present.

Edo Period Architecture: The 112-Year Reconstruction Saga

Shachi mythical creature roof ornament - Edo Period architecture at Saga Castle
Fish tail? No, it's Shachi with a tiger's head and the body of a fish!

Saga Castle boasts a tumultuous history reminiscent of a Shōgun-era drama. There's just no way you can avoid learning about daimyō Naomasa Nabeshima when the castle museum itself is likened to a phoenix rising from the ashes as the castle faced destruction, rebuilding, and eventual dismantling due to wear. The 1726 fire that devoured the honmaru (main keep) left it in ruins for 112 years – until the 17-year-old prodigy revolutionized Saga. The castle was then dismantled due to deterioration in the early 20th century, but reconstructed in 2004 into how it was in the last years of the Edo Period.

Needless to say, this was one of the rare experiences for my friends because it's not often we will walk into a museum without shoes. However, as soon as we walked into the castle building, we understood why. The tatami flooring, the tsugite joints that reminds me a lot of the way how China's Forbidden City had its halls built with the sunmao technique, where both techniques interlock wood pieces without nails and glue - it's like it's a massive piece of IKEA furniture, but with no Allen keys, reconstructed in the 19th century!

The Teenage Lord Who Vaccinated a Nation

This teen lord didn’t just rebuild a castle – he built Japan’s first vaccination program after obtaining smallpox serum from Dutch traders. The exhibit detailing how he tested it on his own son first? Chilling. If you're wondering about more lore about Japanese medication, yes, the first vaccination program in Japan also began here. In this museum you’ll find so much text, videos, and exhibits more than just Western-style cannons – because apparently revolutionizing healthcare alone wasn’t enough!

Tatami Museum Experience: Walking Through History Literally

Saga Castle History Museum Reading Corner
If you finished looking around and needed somewhere to sit down to read, there's also a corner for you to read in the museum, right next to the reception counter

On top of being amazed by the sight of its architecture, we were stunned, completely in awe at the sight of the tatami hallway on our way to more exhibits. When we walked through the 45m "Samurai Corridor", which is also the longest continuous tatami hallway in Japan, we felt the need to walk very carefully in fear of accidentally damaging them. Not to mention, there are also 11-layer plaster walls – each coat mixed with seaweed extract and hemp, so Friend A and I did spend some time to marvel at the textures of literally almost everything here!

In multiple sections, through videos (with English subtitles), exhibits that offers hands-on experience, as well as interactive screens for virtual tours, we learnt the history of Saga from how there are already trades with the western world that brought not just medical breakthroughs, but also in weaponry, and more that have revolutionized Saga! Even till this day, just imagining the sight of a western cannon in a tatami room itself still gives me the chills considering how impactful it was when my eyes landed on the display of weapons near the entrance itself. So much to think, so much to feel from an insightful visit that took us just a little longer than an hour, considering we were the last three visitors of the day!

Time-Traveler’s Toolkit

🧦 Shoe Protocol: Remove footwear immediately – the tatami is pristine 1838-grade. Coin lockers fit regular bags, but leave giant suitcases at your hotel (carry your valuables with you though, especially passports).
🎧 Secret Weapon: The free English audio guide (1hr runtime) – borrow it even if you hate tours. The narrator’s dramatic readings of Nabeshima’s diary entries? Chef’s kiss.

Why Your Visit Matters

This isn’t just another castle. It’s where:
  • 📜 19th-century blueprints show steam engine designs that were mind-blowing
  • 💉 Vaccine vials, katana swords, guns and rifles in display cases under the same roof
  • 👘 The “mock classroom” lets you sit like 1860s students learning ancient texts
  • ⌛ With just an hour or two's visit, you get intelligent points for learning history in such compact manners, and all for free!

All of this made our visit worthwhile, especially how we drove here after our visit to Kumamoto Castle! Parking was easy to find, though we walked a little and it's almost sunset by the time we arrived at the entrance, rushing a little while being worried we wouldn't be able to make it into their last entry hours (we did, else this post won't exist!).

Essential Intel

⏰ Hours: 9:30 AM - 6:00 PM (Last entry 5:30 PM)
🚫 Closed: Dec 29-31 + random maintenance days (check site)
📸 Photo Rules: Building yes, exhibits no (they mean it)
🎟️ Admission: Free! Donations are accepted too.
♿️ Wheelchair Friendly: The museum has parking lots, slope, and toilet that you can use your wheelchair in. Wheelchairs are also available when requested from the reception counter.
🍼 Baby Friendly: The museum offers three baby cars for borrowing from the reception counter. Parents can also use their nursing room if necessary.


Looking for more activities to do in Saga? Read more about Kunen-an here! Would you walk 45 meters of sacred tatami? Or does sock tourism scare you? Debate below! ⚔️

*Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps keep the blog running - thank you! 🙏

🏨 Book Saga Hotels 🚗 Rent a Car via Trip.com ✈️ Flights to Fukuoka
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Some travel days feel like a serene stroll through history. This wasn’t one of them. Between dodging school groups in matching red hats and marveling at walls designed to repel ninjas, our visit to Kumamoto Castle became equal parts awe and chaos. Here’s how we survived – and why you shouldn’t miss Japan’s most ingenious fortress, even if you need to channel your inner samurai patience.


The Parking Gamble and Wakuwakuza Combo Trick

Kumamoto Castle Tenshukaku
The color scheme, the design, everything here left us in awe
Despite our hotel being a 15-minute walk away, we drove – a decision that paid off when we discovered the castle’s parking lot. Pro tip: Arrive before 9am – we snagged the last spot that was super close to Wakuwakuza!

Before our visit began, we grabbed discounted combo tickets at Wakuwakuza. While the details of Wakuwakuza is in another post, here's a TLDR: their quirky exhibits on castle engineering made appreciating Kato Kiyomasa’s genius even sweeter. Or maybe that was how good the street food smelled...


Kato Kiyomasa: The Demon Daimyō Who Built to Last

In our previous post about Wakuwakuza, I did mention about a couple popular figures, and in this post I'd like to introduce someone very, VERY important, because no Kumamoto Castle visit is complete without learning about Kumamoto’s founding father.

Kato Kiyomasa (1562-1611) wasn’t just a castle architect – he was a tea master, poet, and Korea War veteran who designed Kumamoto as a “death trap” for invaders. His intellect can be seen in the dual-purpose infrastructure: 80km of castle moats doubled as irrigation canals, and feeding rice fields that funded his war chest. Love him or loathe him (His enemies might lean latter), his 400-year-old walls withstood earthquakes that flattened modern buildings – the ultimate mic drop from the past, I'd say.


Architecture That Outsmarted Ninjas

Leaving Wakuwakuza behind as we left for Kumamoto Castle

As we walked along the paths, traversed the slopes and staircases on our way there, it was soon enough that Kumamoto Castle’s musha-gaeshi (武者返し) walls left me speechless. The Musha-gaeshi wall literally means "warrior-returning wall", and there's a reason why! 

On our way to Tenshukaku
These curved stone barriers start gently but curve dramatically at the top – basically a 16th-century “no entry” sign even for agile ninjas. Our guide shared that during the 2016 earthquakes, these ancient walls held firm while modern structures crumbled. Resilience goals, indeed.


Kuragari-Tsuro: The Dark Passage

I've cranked up my image brightness quite a bit for this photo
We are soon welcomed by the Kuragari-Tsuro before we enter the main building. Underneath the Honmaru-Goten, there this an underground stone passageway called Kuragari-Tsuro, or translated to 'Dark Passage'. This particilar feature is something of an architerctual anomily amongst Japanese castles, and the official entrance to the palace itself is underground. The passage is one of the castle's noteable defence features.


The Vision of Kato Kiyomasa (1601-1607)

Completed in 1607 after seven years of construction, Kumamoto Castle stands as the magnum opus of daimyō Kato Kiyomasa – a warrior-engineer whose innovations redefined Japanese fortresses. Born in 1562, Kiyomasa leveraged his experience in Korean invasions (1592-1598) to create a castle designed to withstand modern warfare. Unlike earlier hilltop castles, he strategically positioned it on the plain of Mount Kinbō, using the natural terrain to create overlapping defensive zones. The 5.3km perimeter housed 49 turrets and 18 fortified gates, with walls incorporating his signature musha-gaeshi (warrior-repelling) curves.

A replica exhibited in the castle itself, and the details are so beautiful I stood before it for so long!
Kiyomasa’s engineering brilliance extended beyond warfare. His chisui (water management) systems transformed the region – the Jōren River’s diversion provided moat water while preventing floods, and 80% of his irrigation canals remain functional today. This dual focus on defense and civil infrastructure earned him the enduring nickname Seishōkō (Saint Lord), revered even by former enemies. The castle became the administrative heart of the 520,000 koku Higo Domain, symbolizing both military might and agricultural prosperity.


Architectural relics from his era still awe visitors:
  • Uto Turret: The only original 17th-century keep surviving wars and earthquakes
  • Ishigaki Stone Walls: 13km of curved barriers using natural volcanic rock
  • Kurogane Gate: Iron-reinforced doors resistant to cannon fire

The Satsuma Rebellion: A Castle Under Siege (1877)

Entering Tenshukaku
Kumamoto Castle’s military prowess faced its ultimate test during the Satsuma Rebellion – a 52-day siege that reshaped Japanese history. In February 1877, Saigō Takamori’s 13,000-strong rebel army surrounded the castle, held by just 3,500 Imperial troops under General Tani Tateki. The rebels’ modern Armstrong guns bombarded the walls, but Kiyomasa’s musha-gaeshi design proved impervious to scaling attempts. Defenders used hidden tunnels like the Kuragari Tōro (Dark Passage) to resupply, while the central keep’s 30m elevation allowed accurate artillery strikes.

The castle’s resilience came at a cost. On April 8th, a mysterious fire destroyed the Tenshukaku (main keep) and Honmaru Palace – whether arson, accident, or tactical scorching remains debated. Despite this, the garrison held until reinforcements arrived, cementing Kumamoto’s reputation as “Japan’s most impregnable castle.” The rebellion’s failure marked the end of samurai uprisings, with surviving stone walls later designated a National Historic Site in 1933, and some key battle remnants are still visible today.


The Ghost Rooms and Earthquake Scars


It's so difficult to take pictures...
One thing that was imprinted in my memories was how there were relations with Chinese history. The Honmaru Palace’s Shōkun-no-Ma chamber tells a tragic tale. Its walls depict Wang Zhaojun, a Chinese noblewoman sent to marry a barbarian king – but locals whisper it’s really a hidden meeting room for Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s heir. The 2016 quakes left its floor collapsed, now preserved as a haunting reminder of nature’s power.


Modern Trials: Earthquakes and Restoration (2016-Present)

Students, students everywhere
Enough talking about history, but here's something important that everyone should know: The April 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes inflicted ¥63.4 billion in damage, collapsing 30% of stone walls and cracking the rebuilt Tenshukaku. Restoration follows a 20-year “Castle Town Revival” plan blending traditional methods with seismic tech. As of 2025, three key areas are complete:
  • Tenshukaku (Main Keep): Reopened in 2021 with shock-absorbing base isolators
  • Kenmotsu Yagura Turret: Restored using 17th-century joinery techniques
  • Naga-Bei Long Wall: 2,200 reclaimed stones reset via 3D mapping
Their ongoing projects prioritize authenticity. Artisans are using kikuchi-gaki, a 400-year-old stone-fitting method – while XRF analysis ensures new walls match original mineral compositions. The Honmaru Palace’s full restoration, slated for 2037, involves rebuilding 35 rooms with Edo-period materials: Kyoto-made shōji screens, Tsushima cedar floors, and gold leaf from Kanazawa. Visitors can also witness restoration progress at the castle's official website.


Crowd Combat 101: Reaching the Observatory


The view I fought my way upstairs for
If you remembered, I did say that my visit here was chaotic, so yes, let’s address the elephant in the castle: student groups. Because visiting during Japan’s school trip season (March-May/October-November) meant:
  • ☠️ Extra long wait queue for the observatory elevator AND the stairs
  • 📸 Dodging taking pictures of children everywhere (please refrain from uploading images of their faces whenever possible)
  • 🎧 Secret weapon for focus: Noise-canceling headphones because it's noisy EVERYWHERE
Was the panoramic view worth it? Absolutely – spotting the ginkgo tree that has survived multiple fires from above felt... pretty poetic, if you asked me.

Souvenir Wars: Kumamon vs Honey Soft Serve

Kumamon Treats!
Of course, since we're in Kumamoto, there's no escape from getting souvenirs! Whether it's from the castle souvenir shop or the Takadanobaba, everywhere in this city tested our wallets with:
  • 🍯 Honey Soft Serve (700 yen – pricey but worth every bite)
  • 👹 Basashi Sushi (Yes, that's horse meat – adventurous, but it was great and none of us chickened out!)
  • 📿 Kumamon Omikuji (I only gotten a “medium luck”)

Visiting Practicalities

Hours: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM (Last entry 4:00 PM)
Closed: December 29
Admission:
- Castle Only: ¥800 (Adult), ¥300 (Child)
- Combo (Castle + Wakuwakuza): ¥850 – Purchase at either location
Guided Tours: English audio guides available upon request (based on availability)


Key Takeaways and Tips


The squid tastes so good I wished I had more, but I really don't want to queue all over again lol

  • 🚗 Parking: Arrive early if you're renting a car Times Car Rental – we snagged the last parking spot right next to Wakuwakuza!
  • 🎟️ Tickets: Wakuwakuza combo saves you some yen – buy the combo tickets!
  • 🗺️ Guides: If you'd like to check out the restoration progress, check the official website here


If you find this blog post helpful, please consider to support my blog and future adventures! Book your stay at Kumamoto via my Agoda link or check Kumamoto flight deals or car rentals on Trip.com. It doesn't cost you more, but it'd be a motivator to keep me writing, a win-win for us!

Would you brave the student group gauntlet for samurai history? Or is your ideal castle visit crowd-free? Battle it out in the comments! ⚔️
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Kunen-an 九年庵 2023

Some places guard their beauty like a jealous deity – and Kunen-an takes this to extremes. With only 9 autumn days during November to witness its famed autumn foliage, this garden feels less like a tourist spot and more like a whispered pact between nature and history. Here’s the stories of how we found ourselves Saga’s best-kept secret – complete with drizzle-dodging, ceramic treasure hunts, and a 800-year-old tree that reminds me of traces of spirituality everywhere.

Our trip to was not booked solely to meet Kunen-an's 9-day autumn window, but as soon as the joy I had upon discovering the coincidence of our days Kyushu meeting the said window washed over me, I knew we had to be here. Overjoyed with the fact that this would be a rare sight and easily be the highlight of our second half of the journey, I was certain that visiting Kunen-an is nothing lesser than my spiritual calling. With a nice breakfast from our hotel filling our tummies, we drove all the way from our hotel and made seeing Kunen-an the first thing to do in the morning.

Scenery before arriving at Kunen-an 九年庵 by bus
Welcomed by the scene as soon as we arrived by bus
Located in Kanzaki of Saga prefecture, Kunen-an is accessible by public transportation. However, since we have rented a car, I've decided for our trio to drive to Yoshinogarirekishi Koen Nishiguchirinji Parking Lot after doing some girl math. It's a temporary lot that charges us 500 yen for each car, but offers free shuttle for us to reach Niiyama Park where we can enjoy a scenic walk towards Kunen-an. Public buses would be 300 yen per person, so that saves us 400 yen in total! Not much, but enough to get us some snacks! It rained as soon as we parked our car, but luckily enough, it turned into drizzles throughout our bus ride, and stopped the moment we arrived at Kunen-an!

The Nine-Year Garden: Itami Yataro’s Obsession

Autumn scenery in Kunen-an 九年庵
My eyes were set on the trees in the middle, they look edible
Commissioned in 1900 by Meiji-era tycoon Itami Yataro, Kunen-an (九年庵) translates to “Nine-Year Hermitage” – a nod to the obsessive timeline its creator imposed. Itami's family ran businesses, and other than that, Yataro is well-known with his involvement with railway companies as well as his efforts to electrify Saga as the first boss-man of Nishitetsu. While it was uncertain of the exact reason Yataro decided to build Kunen-an, but it was certain that Kunen-an revealed the poetic side of this tycoon, where it was a retreat where traditional boardroom ruthlessness met tea ceremony refinement.

Kunen-an 九年庵 Autumn
The reflection was marvelous
Unlike typical Japanese gardens built for shoguns or monks, this 68,000㎡ retreat was a passion project by a banking magnate seeking mountain solace. In return, it gifted us a shakkei masterpiece that blended the distant Mount Sefuri and the Ariake Sea into its design, creating a panorama that feels both intimate and infinite.

The Shakkei Technique - Borrowing Eternity


Kunen-an 九年庵
Oh to smell the scent of fresh air and petrichor all at once
Kunen-an’s beauty lies in its shakkei (借景) design, where the kanji characters literally means "borrow" and "scenery" respectively. Shakkei is a 17th-century gardening philosophy that “borrows” distant landscapes to create infinite vistas. As we wandered the mossy paths and navigated between visitors to find a photo spot for our new profile photo, we couldn't help but to admire at the genius of Kurume-no-Hotori framing Saga’s wilderness like a living painting: peaks of Mount Sefuri’s became the garden’s backdrop, while the Ariake Sea’s tidal flats reflected in the villa’s koi ponds. This wasn’t just landscaping, it was a gateway to leap into dimensions of space and time.

Kunen-an 九年庵
I too, would love to have a retreat here
Rejecting rigid Edo-era styles, Hotori pioneered Shizen-ryū (“Natural School”) – a philosophy honoring existing topography. By aligning maple groves with the sunrise and shaping stone lanterns to mimic far-off islands, Hotori made seasons and geography conspire to humble visitors. Hotori’s masterstroke? The “hidden asymmetry”. Though the villa appears haphazardly placed, each thatched roof aligns with a celestial event – the east wing catches autumn moonrises, while the west veranda frames winter solstice sunsets. The thatched-roof villa itself is a study in rustic elegance. Different from those you can find in the popular UNESCO World Heritage Shiakawago, what you can find here in Kunen-an is built with:
  • 🏡 Madake bamboo benches that creak like our backbones in mid-life crisis
  • 🎋 Sugi bark-paneled clay walls whispering of Edo craftsmanship
  • 🍵 Sukiya-zukuri tea house architecture with hidden alcoves for moon-viewing
Kunen-an moss 九年庵
Close up shot of moss in Kunen-an, topped with an autumn maple leaf
But the real star, in my humble opinion, isn't something seen from the eye level. It's way beneath – the garden’s “moss carpet”. The velvety green expanse made me completely, and I do mean utterly incapable of resisting the temptations to squat down just to have a feel – a little chilly perhaps from the drizzles earlier, and oddly addictive to touch, and they aren't as prickly as they may seem if looked from close. With all of these pieced together, and perhaps more hidden details that have gone unnoticed, calling this place beauty disguised as chaos may be an understatement as the details here left me squinting everywhere – even at shadows like a cat intrigued with absolutely anything in sight.

Autumn vs. Spring – One Garden, Two Flavors

Near Kunen-an and Niiyama Shrine
The greenery, the calmness, and the Zen
I did mention that you can visit Kunen-an within the span of 9 days every autumn, but there's something else I should also tell you – it also opens for three days during spring, every May! Even though Kunen-an’s autumn fame overshadows its spring rebirth, springtime in Kunen-an gives you a breath of freshness that you'd want to stay here for more than just an hour.

In November, the garden blazes with 300 maple varieties – from yamamomiji (mountain crimson) to oosakazuki (giant teacup leaves). But May’s “limited green viewing” offers subtler magic: scents of morning dew, baby koi darting through duckweed, and moss so vivid it glows like jade under rain. I don't know about you, but I swear spring’s shinryoku (新緑, which means new green) smells different in Japan – imagine a crispness in the air laced with freshness, and perhaps also listening to the flowing waters from a hidden, perhaps secret corner near Niiyama Shrine. Doesn't that sound refreshingly pleasant itself?

Flower near Jizoin, Kanzaki Saga Japan
Taken outside Jizoin
While we may have missed it by six months, but hey, where autumn screams, spring sighs. A truth as bitter as the matcha we drank: even paradise has its price. Guess I'll have no choice but to plan another trip during spring, if I can ever avoid the Golden Week seasonal charges when Kunen-an opens for spring, that is.

Niiyama Shrine: Where Trees Are Gods

Tree of Niiyama Shrine, Kanzaki 仁比山神社
There's just something alluring in nature's beauty
Nearby Kunen-an, there are many shrines surrounding it. Let's be real, my stamina isn't great after days and days of walking, and by the time we're here, it's almost lunch time, so I didn't have the stamina to visit more temples other than Niiyama Shrine and Jizoin (and purchased more omamori, for once again). However, one popular place that many would visit while being here is no other than Niiyama Shrine – a spiritual heavyweight disguised as a quiet grove. 


Side view of Niiyama Shrine, Kanzaki 仁比山神社
Niiyama Shrine from the side
Why Niiyama Shrine, you asked? It's because not only is the shrine close to Kunen-an, it is also home to:
  • 🌳 Twin camphor trees aged 800 and 600 years (their gnarled roots look like dragon scales)
  • ⛩️ A 17th-century Nio-mon gate guarded by glowering Kongōrikishi statues
  • 🎭 The Ondamai Festival held every 12 years (next in 2028, every year of the Monkey!) 
Hike to Niiyama Shrine, Kanzaki 仁比山神社
The hike to Niiyama Shrine
If you realized how Ondamai Festival is held during the year of Monkey, then you'll probably figure that the deity here in Niiyama Shrine is, in fact, a monkey, and you can find monkey statues everywhere around Niiyama Shrine. While the walking space near the main building isn't exactly what I'd call spacious, it is still a pleasant visit. I couldn't help but to feel the air humming with spiritual energy that’s equal parts soothing and spine-tingling when I glanced at the back of the main shrine building right after purchasing my omamori, and decided to trust my intuition to take a look behind the main building. 

Monkey statues Niiyama Shrine, Kanzaki 仁比山神社
Monkeys, monkeys everywhere
With my piqued curiosity, I insisted to have our trio all walk to the back of the shrine building. To our (pleasant) surprise, we found a little corner with a row of monkey statues and little wishing spots, which then more people happened to notice us entering the little alley and followed through to all gasp in awe because let's be honest, I don't think anyone would really decide to check out the back of a shrine when it isn't exactly the most well-illuminated area, but my curiosity and intuition certainly have rewarded me.


At the back of Niiyama Shrine, Kanzaki 仁比山神社
More monkeys in the back alley
And that with our curiosity satisfied, we took a small detour to Jizoin to pray in the beautiful temple with such a mesmerizing ceiling that it is such a pity we couldn't take pictures inside. I also did purchase a few more omamori (yes, again) before happily walking back to Niiyama Park, while also grabbing a set of Rinsai ceramic cup and saucer and some snacks before arriving back at Niiyama Park for our ride back to the car park.

Practical Magic: Parking, Rain, and Ceramic Souvenirs

Manhole in Kanzaki, Saga Japan
Manhole
Visiting Kunen-an did feel like a treasure hunt, and accessing it is easy from Saga Station/City Center:
  • 🚗 Drive 25 mins to Yoshinogarirekishi Koen Nishiguchirinji Parking Lot. Parking is ¥500 (Map Code: 37 541 813*16)
  • 🚌 Board the free shuttle bus that drops you off at Niiyama Park
  • ☔ Pray to weather gods – our drizzle stopped magically as the bus arrived at Niiyama Park!

Temporary parking lot to Kunen-an, with rainbow
A rainbow before we're headed to our next destination, what a blessing
And before I forget, I should mention that the walk to and from Kunen-an is a gauntlet of temptation, with:
🍁 Street stalls selling grilled ginnan (ginkgo nuts) that costed us 100 yen
🍶 Handmade Arita-yaki teacups (Saga’s 400-year-old porcelain legacy)
🍠 Daigakuimo tempura so crisp, it crackled like autumn itself with the owner joked about letting us eat for free if it's not delicious by the slightest (we paid, of course, and it was 300 yen, so the total was just perfect 400 yen we saved for driving).

Key Details for Time Travelers

⏰ 2025 Open Dates:
🍁 Autumn: To be announced later in 2025, please check here for latest updates.
🌸 Spring: May 3-5 (Last entry 4:00 PM)
🎟️ Admission: ¥800 adults / ¥400 kids (cash only, price may increase)
🚫 Closed: Year-round, except the 12 days opening window throughout the year
📸 Important Notes: 
  • This location is not wheelchair friendly. It is also not stroller friendly.
  • It is pet-friendly if you can carry them in your arms at all times.
  • You are not allowed to bring tripods or similar tooks for photography in Kunen-an.
  • You are also not allowed to eat or drink in Kunen-an, but there are places to dine nearby.

Would you brave Saga’s backroads for 12 days of magic? Or does fleeting beauty scare you? Let’s debate below! 🍂

*Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps keep the blog running - thank you! 🙏

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Image may contain: 1 person, standing, ocean and outdoor
Jin, Type A ENFP, Virgo-Libra Cusp
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